Forest Lawn
5.9+,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 143
votes
FA: First pitch FA: Mike McEwan and Gary Axen, 1975. Complete ascent: Mike McEwen and Dave Baker, 1976
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Cochise Stronghold
> E Stronghold
> Rockfellow Group
> Bastion Towers
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link:
fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad… Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information:
theclimbershome.org/breedin… Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
The first pitch is the classic pitch and gets the stars. It is a classic layback crack in a left facing corner. Pumpy and steep for about 45 feet or so, then the angle lessens. Finish at a two bolt belay. There is a thank God rest just when you need it.
The second pitch is a full rope length up a grungy 5.7 crack. It's okay, but not up to the quality of the first pitch. A double rope rap from the top of pitch one will get you to the ground if you don't like the looks of pitch 2. The second pitch ends at tied off chickenheads for a belay (hope you brought your shoulder length slings).
The final pitch is best described as low-angle chickenhead hiking.
Descent: Rap by climbing onto the summit block/knob just to your right as you top out. Once on top, head down the ramp to a set of Metolius rap hangers. Make a single rope rap down the ramp/nose to a set of rap anchors (chains). A double rope rap from here will just get you down to the start of the climb. (-Randy Baum)
Addendum: I just wanted to add that this past weekend, I did the Pair-a-Grins variation to this route and it is without a doubt a better way to the top than the standard 2nd pitch. It's a little run-out between bolts (thought-provoking but not unsafe) and the exposure isn't for the faint of heart. All I took for this pitch was quickdraws.
Location
This is at the far left (east) end of the Rockfellow Group as you come in from the east side approach. Look for a nice open book. See route description for descent.
Protection
Finger size pieces (Metolius tri-cams) and a couple of red camalots for the first pitch. standard rack with a handful of shoulder length slings for the second pitch. In general, Stronghold climbers can never carry enough shoulder length slings (10 is a good number). As many have suggested in the comments, a 60m rope is good to have.
[Hide Photo] Photo taken by the climber who was the cover model of Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona (same route, same pose).
[Hide Photo] Great Climb. Photo by Sarah Handrahan
[Hide Photo] wide angle view of the route. photo by Marcia
[Hide Photo] Lizards. This is after we scared most of them back I to the crack. Also had to down climb the start because of a giant centipede. I was waiting for some nibbles on my tips…
[Hide Photo] high up on the esthetic first pitch of forest lawn
Forest Lawn is a burly 5.9 fer sure. Pair a grins was no cruise at 10c either. Two great pitches however...very memorable. Dec 3, 2006
Phoenix, AZ
The Dungeon, NM
(To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)
I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins. Dec 17, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
you can also double rope rap from the metolius hangers to the first belay of forrest lawn. look out for rope snags, as there are quite a few chickenheads, flakes, nobs, and other pesky obstacles. Oct 16, 2008
Bishop, CA
vimeo.com/34545009 Jan 6, 2012
Oakland
Steamboat Springs, Co
Gets me fired up for an upcoming Cochise trip. Dec 22, 2012
Silicon Valley/Boulder
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Squamish, BC
Tucson
Also, 2nd standard pitch beta: I would have been happier if I brought a #4. Most of it is 5.7 or less but the crux I thought was a reachy 5.9 with the last good piece of gear around your feet. Maybe I missed something. Stay in/around the crack until the walls start closing in on you, then move out left to the chickenheads. Jan 7, 2017
Houghton, MI
Tucson, AZ
Marana