Kris Gorny   5.11c

[Hide Comment] The 5.12b rating is either a mistake or a typo in the Farris's guidebook -- 5.11c feels more like it. This is definitely one of the best and most fun routes at Red Wing. Initial dirty ledges but excellent climbing through two large roofs higher up. Apr 30, 2007

Sean Patrick Minneapolis, MN   5.12a

[Hide Comment] A great, non-painful route to do every time you're in the perfect crimb area, and the best roof route at the crag. This route was a lot harder to on-sight six years ago when all the best holds weren't covered in chalk. About as hard as Work Ethic, Longing for Miss Adonis, or Kelly's Arete, and buckets of fun. It if ends up consensus 11c, I'll be a little surprised. Maybe climbers are just stronger on the steep than on the technical these days? Oct 25, 2007

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Probably you are right about the steep versus the technical. I thought it was way easier than Kelly's Arete, and Miss Adonis is kind of a one move wonder so it's hard to compare. It's been a number of years since I did Work Ethic so it's probably not a fair comparison coming from me. Oct 26, 2007

Kris Gorny   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Guys, Advanced Birding seems to me a number grade easier than Perfect Sex, which is just to the left of it. In Farris's book they're both rated 12b. One of these ratings is off. Oh well, just numbers... Awesome route nevertheless. Oct 30, 2007

Darin Limvere   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Perfect Sex is a pretty solid 12b for redwing. I'm terrible on steep stuff and Advance Birding didn't feel very 12 to me... I would agree with kris. One of my favorites on the dark side. It's wierd, because the top of the route is so good that you completely forget about the bottom when you're clipping the chains. Oct 30, 2007

Sean Foster   5.12a

[Hide Comment] Just found my way to Advanced Birding this season. I'm a solid 11 climber and this climb is just a little out of my reach after a few tries. My take on the rating is that its a 12 for those that aren't 12 climbers yet and an 11 for those that are. I'm psyched to have it as a project this year and look forward to the day I feel like I can downgrade it! Not yet though... beautiful climb (once you're past the sandy start). Jul 4, 2011

Dreez

[Hide Comment] I think its harder than Chinese Freedom, so 12a Sep 12, 2011

Kris Gorny   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Et tu, Dreez, contra me? Dang :) Sep 12, 2011

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Well, maybe Chinese Freedom is 11a. :) Gorny I am with you on this one. Chinese Freedom took me 3 sessions back in the day, and in the same era of my life, Advanced Birding took 2 tries. Whatever. All opinions are duly noted, and all are of equal value (ie. worthless). Sep 12, 2011

Kris Gorny   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Ha ha! This is fun. I hope this keeps going. Well, if Cyclops can be 5.12a then, I guess, so can Advanced Birding. But that would bump Kelly's Arete and Perfect Sex to 5.12c neighborhood. Sep 12, 2011

chris tregge Madison WI   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Everyone knows Minnesota is soft Kris. Plus, didn't I just say that your opinion is worthless? Read my comment above more carefully. Sep 12, 2011

Kris Gorny   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Oh, I know it is worthless. But worthless can still be fun. After all, climbers are "conquistadors of the useless", so when we don't have a conquista going, exchange of useless opinions is a viable option. Come to remember, what bothered me about Advanced Birding was the Farris's rating of 5.12b, the same as for the neighboring Perfect Sex. 5.12a probably does not seem so out of place. Sep 12, 2011

A.J. Christnovich La Crosse, WI   5.11d

[Hide Comment] I would consider myself to be a 5.11 climber that can occasionally get a 5.12. I always try to climb this when I am in the area as well as Chinese freedom. I think these two climbs are at the same level of difficulty with different emphasized styles. No matter the ratings, jump on the thing and have a blast. Nov 2, 2011

Tony Litke La Crosse, WI   5.11a

[Hide Comment] Super fun and fluid! Lots of rest spots so that is helpful for sending when you've drained yourself on the winter wall. Mar 4, 2015

Silas.1 Pencille

[Hide Comment] Bolt over the first roof is badly bent (kinda flattened). May 28, 2018

Bryce Mikel Redlands, CA   5.12a

[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this route. Not only does it have a tough roof that require you to pull hard on smallish crimps, but the climbing thereafter is sequence heavy on good holds. Regarding the rating, I feel pretty strongly this is a 12a route. The reason for this being that our rating system in the US is technically based on the hardest move, not the route in its entirety. Not being a shorter person, getting my feet. up over the first roof felt like something I'd expect on a 12 or a V4-5 boulder and not any 11's. Regardless, it's a visually pleasing, very bumpy, technical route that I think you should all get on despite the first 20 feet of sandbox climbing :p! Apr 25, 2019

K Dub Out West   5.12-

[Hide Comment] Bolts are all rusted. One has been replaced with a glue-in. Bolt hanger above the roof is terribly bent. Anchors looked good. Needs a re-bolt. Jul 31, 2021

randy baum   5.11+

[Hide Comment] I have led this on gear. If the bolts need replacing, hook up with the MCA and help put them in. We all need to chip in to keep hardware safe and up to date. Aug 2, 2021

Dane Haverly Minneapolis, MN 5.12a

[Hide Comment] I broke the top left hold before traversing right to the ledge before the chains. That beta is no longer an option. You'll have to go direct only now at the top. Nov 8, 2021

K Dub Out West   5.12-

[Hide Comment] Randy, I have a bolt puller and 1/2" stainless bolts and hangers. I sent a message on the MCA website and got no response. I'd love to help out and replace some bolts. I need a drill and some more tools. Jul 12, 2022