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Full Moon Monkey

5.8+, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 107 votes
FA: Jason Stevens
Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Orangutan Wall

Description

Very fun route with nine bolts that shares anchors with next route on right. Excellent climbing on quality rock make this a route not to be missed in Maple; was originally bolted at 3:30 AM on a full moon night!

Location

Start on a rib between two obvious holes in the wall; Excellent Climbing on this route!

Protection

Nine bolts will get you to the fixed anchors for rappel with one rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

An unknown climber on Full Moon Monkey.  Taken on 10/5/2013.  If you're the climber and want the picture, let me know!
[Hide Photo] An unknown climber on Full Moon Monkey. Taken on 10/5/2013. If you're the climber and want the picture, let me know!
Perin Blanchard during a lovely summer evening in <em>Maple</em>.<br>
<br>
Photo by John Ross.
[Hide Photo] Perin Blanchard during a lovely summer evening in Maple. Photo by John Ross.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
[Hide Comment] On 5.8.10 I replaced the anchors on this route and gave it dedicated anchors. It used to share anchors with Primate Grooming Procedures but each route now has its own anchors. I did this because there are often lines of people waiting to do the routes on this wall. One of the two lines was always empty because the anchors were occupied by climbers on the other route. No worries now. Climb on! May 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] Confirming that third bolt is still a spinner. 11/6/2012. Actually, quite a few spinners on the routes 5.9 and below (the only ones I climbed). Makes me a little nervous about the rest of the bolts. Nov 8, 2012
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] excellent sustained 5.8 on impeccable rock. May 31, 2017
Josh Vondran
Salt Lake City
 
[Hide Comment] The anchors on this climb need some work. The bottom link of chain on one side of the anchor is almost completely worn through on both sides, and the hanger adjacent to the chain doesn't have any additional hardware in it. Unfortunately, I didn't have any gear with me to fix the problem. I would highly recommend those reading this comment, avoid climbing this route until some maintenance is done, otherwise, someone's day could be ruined in the near future. May 30, 2018