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Primate Grooming Procedures

5.8, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 149 votes
FA: Jason Stevens
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Orangutan Wall

Description

Ascends the black water streak. Excellent well protected route. This route now has its own set of anchors (formerly shared anchors with the route Full Moon Monkey to its left).

Location

Route furthest on right hand side of wall; follow the obvious waterstreak.

Protection

Approx 7 Bolts will get you up this route. Chains at the anchor (no mussy's like its neighbors to the left and right)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

PGP Route from Belay
[Hide Photo] PGP Route from Belay
on up the black streak
[Hide Photo] on up the black streak
Up the black streak past the big hole
[Hide Photo] Up the black streak past the big hole
Near the start
[Hide Photo] Near the start
I have two right feet.
[Hide Photo] I have two right feet.
Missi leading PGP.
[Hide Photo] Missi leading PGP.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
[Hide Comment] On 5.8.10 I replaced the anchors on this route and gave it dedicated anchors. It used to share anchors with Full Moon Monkey but each route now has its own anchors. I did this because there are often lines of people waiting to do the routes on this wall. One of the two lines was always empty because the anchors were occupied by climbers on the other route. No worries now. Climb on! May 8, 2010
Jordy Hanson
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the anchors sir! Jun 22, 2013
Danny Cardoza
Provo, UT
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Perhaps it was just me (I'm short), but coming up over the little hole after the first bolt seemed harder than a 5.7 move--you could go right of the hole, but the move up over it was pretty tricky. Aug 10, 2014
Melissa TM
Spanish Fork, Ut
 
[Hide Comment] felt harder than 5.7 But really fun route! Oct 10, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] much harder than 5.7. excellent route though! May 31, 2017
Colter Hulet
Provo, UT
[Hide Comment] Super enjoyable and a great view from the top, sun shines on the wall in the morning making the rock warm. First overhang is tricky if tackled head on, for easier beta go right of the overhang. Pretty cruiser after the first three bolts, just be careful not to overgrip early on and you'll be fine. Jun 24, 2019
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
  5.9 X
[Hide Comment] Runout X 10m to b1 albeit on 5.4 territory. An extra bolt at 6m would sort that easily. Quite pumpy till last 5m. Sep 21, 2022
Brian Reyman
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Definitely 5.8. Beta is to stay right at the pod area. Doing that provides access to some key holds. Going left of bolt or straight up makes it a few grades harder than 5.8. Jun 3, 2024