Type: Sport
FA: Mike Argueso & Tony Lusk, '93
Page Views: 296 total · 2/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Jul 16, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Pretty sweet climb, but they skimped on the steel. There are some runouts on not-so-easy terrain--it adds to the fun. Full variety pack: thin, sustained, burly, tricky, spicy. Good fun all around. Squeezing the Lemmon says "getting to bolt 6 takes some maneuvering". There are actually only five bolts on this route, and it's number five that is trickiest to get. First bolt is quite a ways up.

Location

Bolted line between Jack the Slipper (leftmost bolt line) and Of Mice and Men (and associated line of shuts). Look for the high first bolt.

Protection

Occasional bolts, chains.

Photos

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joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
The climbing between bolts 5 and 6 is pretty cool. Get ready to haul on a smaller than comfortable crystal a few feet above your last bolt. Very satisfying climb. Oct 26, 2007
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.10b PG13
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.10b PG13
This route is likely PG-13 by modern standards. Good climbing. Oct 3, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10c PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10c PG13
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lord_…'s_Bane Nov 19, 2013
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a
IMHO, this climb is not PG13. It's 5.7 to the first bolt and then it's mostly 5.9 to a single thoughtful 5.10a exit move to get to the chains. Regardless, it's a fun climb and worth doing. May 26, 2018