Avg: 3.3 from 46 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||8,609 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Jul 13, 2006|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope). The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.
The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)
P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge. These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.
P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system. Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears. Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.
P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!). A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section. Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains. You can do Blimpie as a harder variation to this final pitch. If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR Blimpie if you're not feeling like leading it.
Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.
NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above. If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!