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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 6,995 total, 50/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

An enjoyable and non-threatening jaunt up the western portion of Rock Springs Buttress. The climbing is relatively straightforward, belays fixed, and the protection excellent - making this a fine introductory route on Rock Springs Buttress. As usual for this crag, there is still some loose rock around so use caution.

There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope). The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.

The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)

P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge. These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.

P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system. Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears. Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.

P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!). A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section. Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains. You can do Blimpie as a harder variation to this final pitch. If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR Blimpie if you're not feeling like leading it.

Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.

NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above. If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!

Location

When the approach trail hits the buttress below Monkey Flower, continue right passing Box Car Arete (a very obvious bolted arete). This climb starts up broken rock and aims for a ledge below a small roof. There are fixed anchors on this ledge, but they are difficult to see from below. Directly above the roof is a big, attractive corner system to can be used to help identify the route. If you cross under a big gully you've gone too far!

Protection

Nuts and 2 sets of cams from TCUs to #3 Camalot. Long slings helpful.

Photos

Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
One of my favorite trad climbs in the teton area (more continuous quality climbing than guides wall in GTNP imo). Every pitch is quality rock and enjoyable. Undercling move on last pitch is spectacular. Nice to have copious bolted anchors as well. Oct 29, 2013
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
The route was originally known as the Right Dihedrals, with the Guide's Route, (or School Route), on the main Rock Springs Buttress, separated from this section of rock by a large gully.
Maurice Horn, shown in this photo, put up the first route on RSB in 1968. We continue to enjoy this formation year after year. May 14, 2007