Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 8,609 total · 52/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

An enjoyable and non-threatening jaunt up the western portion of Rock Springs Buttress. The climbing is relatively straightforward, belays fixed, and the protection excellent - making this a fine introductory route on Rock Springs Buttress. As usual for this crag, there is still some loose rock around so use caution.

There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope). The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.

The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)

P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge. These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.

P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system. Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears. Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.

P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!). A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section. Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains. You can do Blimpie as a harder variation to this final pitch. If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR Blimpie if you're not feeling like leading it.

Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.

NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above. If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!

Location

When the approach trail hits the buttress below Monkey Flower, continue right passing Box Car Arete (a very obvious bolted arete). This climb starts up broken rock and aims for a ledge below a small roof. There are fixed anchors on this ledge, but they are difficult to see from below. Directly above the roof is a big, attractive corner system to can be used to help identify the route. If you cross under a big gully you've gone too far!

Protection

Nuts and 2 sets of cams from TCUs to #3 Camalot. Long slings helpful.

Photos