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Routes in Base Routes

Ahab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bluffer, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hook, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Hook, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delectable Pinnacle, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Cap Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1-2
Footstool, Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hardly Pinnacle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indubious Battle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Arista T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Cosita, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Cosita, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Escuela T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little John, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little John, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mark of Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moby Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moby Dick, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Party Mix T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Peter Left T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peter Pan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reeds Leads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Neurotic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sacherer Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Salathe (pitch 1) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seedy Leads T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short But Thin T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Simulkrime T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Slack ( center), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slack, Left, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparkling Give-away T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TRON S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Schaffer, Greg Schaffer, 1966
Page Views: 14,477 total, 105/month
Shared By: Sketchy Sam on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Begin on a huge platform directly beneath the Nose. Excellent thin 5.7 fingercrack to a ledge with a belay tree and magnificent view. A wonderful Yosemite first lead. Descent: Rappel from tree (recommended) or scramble down right side.

Location

Base of El Capitan, directly beneath the Nose.

Protection

Mostly small gear .3-.75" with an occasional 1-2" piece. Can be easily lead on all passive.
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.7
Great warmup for other nearby Base Routes. There are a few tricky moves so I wouldn't throw a new leader on it. There is a massive tree with new webbing threaded through two of the largest quick links I have ever seen to setup your TR's or rap off. If you are setting up a TR bring a cordelette/long slings and extend the anchor to the edge as the tree is ~20 feet back. Mar 24, 2017
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
Lead Pine Line today and really loved it. Placed a BD #0.5 camalot in the crack at the start and then climbed the rest on stoppers. Near the top I added a BD #1 Camalot but it isnt really necessary since its a short scramble to the ledge. The tree had like 5 slings and 2 rings that you can rappel off of. May 31, 2014
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
I found the SuperTopo approach beta for this to be confusing. If you are intimately familiar with El Cap, its features, and where exactly the unmarked "El Cap Meadow" is, you'll be fine.

If not, you may find the parking location unclear, and the parking is definitely NOT at the highway sign described in the SuperTopo book. I'd call it about halfway between Manure Pile and the highway junction when you're driving away from the Valley. After parking, head towards the point on El Cap where the buttress juts away from the formation the most. The approach trail will go slightly left around this point, and you can then turn back around right at the rockface and climb up to the great ledge that accesses this climb. Apr 24, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Found 5 older mixed Quickdraws hanging from a branch at the base of this route, describe them accurately in a PM and I'll mail them to you.

-Simon May 22, 2011
Dave Alden
Seattle, WA
  5.7 PG13
Dave Alden   Seattle, WA
  5.7 PG13
A classic crack climb right at the base of the Nose, fantastic! Feb 28, 2011
Adam Voss
Bend, OR
Adam Voss   Bend, OR
Superb route with even better views. It eats passive pro for breakfast, lunch, and dinner...Definitely will want long slings to TR. Lives up to the 5.7 grade for the Valley Nov 21, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
I've led it a couple of times, thought it was a bit stiff for 5.7. Aug 2, 2010
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Awesome view and fun climb (speaking of the first pitch, not the el Cap route). A bit slippery in spots, but easy to protect. Small pro... Mar 26, 2007
Jordan K
Ohio
  5.7
Jordan K   Ohio
  5.7
Great warm up route and easy to protect with sweeping views of the valley (and the 3000 ft of rock above adds something too!)
To get there, take the trail to the base of The Nose and walk right (facing the cliff) a few feet, looking for a large ledge.
The belay tree is a ways back from the edge, so you may want to bring some slings to extend the anchor past the bushes. Oct 6, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
From the tree atop Pine Line, a series of fun face climbs can be top-roped. All climbs are right of Pine Line (5.10-5.11). See Photo. See SuperTopos for more detail. Jul 23, 2006