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Routes in Quarry Wall

Charlie And The Chaco FActory V1 5
Double B T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Way S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monosmear S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old'n S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Xenolith S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Pete Gallagher and John Cato, August, 2004
Page Views: 5,133 total · 34/month
Shared By: Anna Moore on Jul 12, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details


This is a fun pitch 2 to Old 'n ending on top of the North Quarry Wall. Once you're at the belay spot, step right around the corner, and work up a steep slab to a short corner with a piton. Finish up easy rock to the summit.


Climb Old 'n, walk right to the north side of the upper quarry ledge, and belay from a piton.


3 fixed pitons to a 2 bolt rappel anchor w/chains.

Addendum: nuts or a few cams to #0.75 Camalot may come in handy.


Anna Moore
Anna Moore  
We climbed this route on July 30th. It definitely has a great view from the top. The first piton is really close to where you start to climb. We never did find the third piton, so the second one we used was on the face just above the short corner. We suspect that the third piton came loose. We're going to climb this route again as soon as it dries up and figure out what kind of extra protection would work best on it. Will keep everyone posted. Jul 12, 2006
Steven N
Steven N   CO
The third piton is to the right. It seems MUCH harder than a 5.6 to go in that direction, so I believe the route follows up the dihedral left. The view is amazing from the top. Gear placements are available for those not comfortable with the runouts. Aug 12, 2006
This is a great climb; it might be slightly underrated. It is run out and it traverses, so a fall in the wrong spot would result in one heck of a pendulum. We did it with out extra gear, but nuts would ease the psychological factor. Although not a difficult climb, the view from the top is awesome, so it is well worth the effort. It could use a belay anchor, but bring a long strap and anchor off the first bolt. Due to the traversing nature of the climb, itÂ’s probably best to belay your second from the top. Nov 9, 2006
Colorado Springs
  5.6 R
ty.   Colorado Springs
  5.6 R
I really enjoyed leading this climb, but it's certainly run out and offers just one piton to belay from the bottom with. A fall between pitons would be bad. The route seems to follow the arete, which gets you to the last piton. The dihedral passes the piton and takes some of the thrill out of the climb. Nov 9, 2006
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
The top section did seem a bit run out and I failed to find third (?) piton protecting the top. Either way I remember thinking a pink or red tricam would fit nicely in the crack in the corner and add some psychological comfort though the climbing in this section is very much 5.easy. Sep 13, 2007
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
At the risk of saying "me too", we also used a cam to avoid that run-out feeling :) (we used a #1 Omega Pacific Link Cam). This was a good second pitch to Xenolith and it was great to top out to wonderful views. This seems to be the highest spot in the canyon if you don't count some of the coyote wall. The stone is great on the face as it seems like this route doesn't get much traffic.

2 stars for the climbing, plus one for the view. Jul 14, 2008
Derek W
Derek W  
This is a fun 2nd pitch to Old'N. It's a little runout. Just one pin where you start the climb and one up high after the shelf. I climbed it the first time without extra gear but with extra caution. I did it the next day with a few pieces of gear. A #0.4 (I think) cam fits nicely in the horizontal next to the little bush, make sure you extend it with at least a shoulder length sling to let the rope run smooth. The dihedral is great for climbers who aren't ready for the tricky move out onto the face just under the 2nd pin. But try that move out onto the face, its a good time! The belay anchors are a bit awkward up top so just extend them with slings and you'll be set! Don't forget your camera!! Mar 24, 2009
Derek W
Derek W  
I've climbed this quite a few times with friends since my last post. I no longer use gear, and, if you are confident at the grade, it is run-out between the 2nd and 3rd pin and the 3rd and the top anchor (the easier terrain) but totally do-able. Just use good footwork up the dihedral to the 3rd, reach around to the right and clip, then step out onto the face. Good fun. Sep 19, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Has the fixed gear situation changed? Or is this more of a gear route now...? Nov 30, 2015
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Not a ton of gear, and, like previously stated, belaying off of one ancient piton is definitely spicy. I remember thinking how much I didn't want to fall in a couple places on this one. Easy climb. Runout. Jul 16, 2017

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