Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in Omega Buttress
|Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4-|
|Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1|
|Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Pono Faulkner, Aaron Gams, 199(9)?|
|Page Views:||700 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Jul 8, 2006|
DescriptionManufactured Crisis is something of an anomaly in the Tetons. Featuring two fat bolts at the crux, the route seems like a good tick for someone climbing at the grade. However, it is somewhat gritty (probably due to the lack of ascents) and my partner pulled out the upper pin which is marked on the topo when the rock surrounding it broke. The moves are fun, but the upper section felt devious and slightly dangerous to me.
P1- Follow the main dihedral up about 15-20', traverse right on good holds to avoid an obvious difficulty in the main corner, then cut back left to blocky rock. Pull a quick lieback and end at fixed slings around a horn. 5.8, 100'.
P2- Pull a quick 5.8 mantle above the belay (#5 stopper key) and continue up the dihedral to the short bolted face. Pull the crux on crimps (or A0 the section :)) and continue up and slightly left, always continuing up the corner. Clip an OK looking pin and continue upward. Find gear when you can, and pull a small bulge at the top of the corner. 85', 5.11b
P3- From a semi-hanging belay, continue up the corner using crack and lieback technique. 5.9, 85'
NOTE: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked.