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Routes in Omega Buttress

Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4-
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pono Faulkner, Aaron Gams, 199(9)?
Page Views: 700 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jul 8, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Manufactured Crisis is something of an anomaly in the Tetons. Featuring two fat bolts at the crux, the route seems like a good tick for someone climbing at the grade. However, it is somewhat gritty (probably due to the lack of ascents) and my partner pulled out the upper pin which is marked on the topo when the rock surrounding it broke. The moves are fun, but the upper section felt devious and slightly dangerous to me.

P1- Follow the main dihedral up about 15-20', traverse right on good holds to avoid an obvious difficulty in the main corner, then cut back left to blocky rock. Pull a quick lieback and end at fixed slings around a horn. 5.8, 100'.

P2- Pull a quick 5.8 mantle above the belay (#5 stopper key) and continue up the dihedral to the short bolted face. Pull the crux on crimps (or A0 the section :)) and continue up and slightly left, always continuing up the corner. Clip an OK looking pin and continue upward. Find gear when you can, and pull a small bulge at the top of the corner. 85', 5.11b

P3- From a semi-hanging belay, continue up the corner using crack and lieback technique. 5.9, 85'

NOTE: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked.

Location

The route is on a buttress adjacent to the main Omega Buttress on the left. From the trail, look for a huge black roof framed by two dihedrals. MC climbs the left dihedral. For descent, use the fixed anchors on top of pitches 1 and 3 for double rope rappels. Use the standard Omega Buttress approach, following the cliff left from the base of the 5.7 approach slab for Annals of Time/Dihedral of Horrors.

Protection

For the crux pitch, small gear (TCUs-.75 Camalot) is great. In my opinion, there wasn't much, and the rock surrounding the upper piton in the topo broke, rendering it useless. The upper pitch takes good hand-sized gear to a #3 Camalot.

Photos

fun route with three different and interesting pitches. the second pitch didn't feel runout to me although it required small cams and nuts. I placed a small blue BD stopper (RPs could be used) and Grey and Purple C3's as well as a some finger and thin hand size cams. If you are climbing the grade on Teton rock don't be afraid to give this one a go. I don't think it gets much traffic because of the R reputation.... Jun 4, 2016
Brian Mulvihill
Wilson, WY
Brian Mulvihill   Wilson, WY
As of June 18th 2010 there is no longer a pin or pins on route as i pulled out the remaining one with no resistance.
A good route if your climbing at the grade, but now it is definitely Runout. Double ropes get you down in two raps from the top. New webbing added to the rap stations June 18th 2010. Jun 18, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
The route does not feature an R rating in Aaron Gam's digital guidebook "Teton Rock Climbs", but the upper pin on pitch two that is featured in his topo no longer exists. That, combined with the gritty and often loose, broken nature of the rock in the upper dihedral warrants an R, IMHO.
He also states that a 25 meter rappel from the anchor atop pitch one will clear the approach slab as well. We did not find this to be the case, and found ourselves downclimbing a bit of easy 5th slab after doing a FULL 30 meter (single-rope) rappel.
Still, a very adventurous route, and the face section is killer! Jul 8, 2006