PRINT: Rock Climb Dirty Dancing, Joshua Tree National Park

Dirty Dancing

5.10a, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 1.1 from 8 votes
FA: (TR) Gene West and Bill Bloch, March 1987, First lead: Bob Gaines and Yvonne MacPherson, November 1987
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley C… > Chimney Rock > Chimney Rock - W Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Begin at the base of Damper and climb up and left to a right-facing flake. A bolt protects the crux face moves above the flake.

Location

just left of Damper on the southwest face

Protection

one bolt (1/2" SS) and a light rack

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Dirty Dancing

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Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.

The drilled angle piton was removed due to poor rock quality and replaced with a 1/2” SS bolt and camouflage colored SS hanger courtesy of the ASCA. The new bolt was placed in much better rock about one foot to the right of where the drilled angle was located. Jul 15, 2018

Simon Kent
Pittsburgh

Bad rock quality and awkward reachy crux move(s) makes for a bomb rating from me Jan 5, 2024

Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID

5.10a

Hmm… this crux was way reachy, and I’m 6’4”! My shorter follower did a very proud points-off dyno and stuck it! The retro-bolt job has the new bolt in a very awkward spot. Only climbed it because it was right above our camp, but should you find yourself at a Chimney Rock campsite, maybe that lone bolt will lure you in too. At the very least the flake is quite fun, rock not "too" dirty, and the final crux well protected. I finished straight up through the dike feature and built a belay above Howard’s Horror. A convenient pocket for a medium sized cam protects the final slab. Jan 27, 2025