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Routes in The Blob - Southeast Face

Buissonier T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Junior T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mama Woolsey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Papa Woolsey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pete's Handful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonderful World Of Art, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Craig Parsley & Pete Wilkening, Nov 1973
Page Views: 800 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

An awkward crack climb, one inch wide at the crux.

Location [Suggest Change]

This crack route is on the southeast face of The Blob, to the right of the Papa Woolsey face. It is in a somewhat indistinct dihedral, and starts part way up the rock.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 2-3 inches, including one or two 1" cams.

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Either a hold has broken off (my suspicion as there is a scar where a hold would make sense) or this is a bit of a sandbag. Three of us today all found the crux move harder than 10a.

The crux involved tenuous shallow chimneying on a poorly placed finger jam to make the reach to a better finger jam. And one of us was 6'+. A clear scar is visible on the rock above the first finger jam, and it really looks like there was once a hold there. Apr 7, 2007
Darren D.
  5.10
Darren D.  
  5.10
This route should be re-named "Pete's Handful of $hit." Maybe I'm pissed because I had such a difficult time with it. For sure harder than nine. Apr 12, 2007
Andy is correct...there once was a handhold where the scar now remains. The climb is called "Pete's Handful" because on the first follow, Pete Wilkening pulled the hold off. He kept it I think. It did make the climb much more difficult sans the hold. Nov 8, 2007

More About Pete's Handful

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