Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Craig Parsley & Pete Wilkening, Nov 1973
Page Views: 838 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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8 Opinions

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Description

An awkward crack climb, one inch wide at the crux.

Location

This crack route is on the southeast face of The Blob, to the right of the Papa Woolsey face. It is in a somewhat indistinct dihedral, and starts part way up the rock.

Protection

Gear to 2-3 inches, including one or two 1" cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Either a hold has broken off (my suspicion as there is a scar where a hold would make sense) or this is a bit of a sandbag. Three of us today all found the crux move harder than 10a.

The crux involved tenuous shallow chimneying on a poorly placed finger jam to make the reach to a better finger jam. And one of us was 6'+. A clear scar is visible on the rock above the first finger jam, and it really looks like there was once a hold there. Apr 7, 2007
Darren D.
  5.10
Darren D.  
  5.10
This route should be re-named "Pete's Handful of $hit." Maybe I'm pissed because I had such a difficult time with it. For sure harder than nine. Apr 12, 2007
Andy is correct...there once was a handhold where the scar now remains. The climb is called "Pete's Handful" because on the first follow, Pete Wilkening pulled the hold off. He kept it I think. It did make the climb much more difficult sans the hold. Nov 8, 2007