Faith and Resurrection
5.10a PG13,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 8
votes
FA: Tony Bubb & Jason Haas, 2006
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> North
> Green Mtn Pinnacle
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This is a pretty good climb. Refer to the directions below to find it. In early morning, the sun is low enough that all but the top of the route is shaded by the more southern wall. By mid-day it is shaded only at the base. In afternoon, it is shaded in almost its entirety again. The lower part of this route is casual, ascending good stone at ~5.6 to reach the start of the crack. The crack is steeper than it looks, and the climbing instantly hits 5.8 or 5.9 as protection becomes available. Climb up and protect on good gear to reach the bulging handcrack up top. Plunk in perfect gear, and do the 5.10a crux to top out on the slab. Wander up a little way to the West and belay, than escape by continuing West to down-climb (5.4?) in a slot and slab to the West, to the South of the main summit of Green Mt. Pinnacle.
Location
Go up over the top or West end of the Green Mountain Pinnacle. From there, descend down to the South side, going East/South East into an "Alley" of sorts. This is 30 meters SE of the Green Sneak chimney.
The South border of this alley is a steep huecoed wall of soft stone. The North Wall, facing South, is solid, good stone and mostly clean. About 1/2 way down this alley you will see an obvious crack that starts thin, about 8 meters off of the deck, then ascends up and right to a final bulge (perfect handcrack) pulling over onto the East face. This is the climb, 'Faith and Resurrection.'
Protection
The route is runout on 5.6 climbing to reach the beginning of the crack. After that a few nuts, cams and slings will get you up it safely. The crux protects on ~2.5 inch cam in perfect rock overhead.
[Hide Photo] The correct line, as seen from inside the Gash/Alley. The business starts just after the fern in the base of the crack, and the fun crux is right at the top.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the upper crux hand crack. Photo by Kevin Gillest.
[Hide Photo] Here is a picture of Pilaf and Arc de Triumph. Pilaf follows the crack system on the left edge of the picture to reach the obvious, right-leaning crack at the top. Arc de Triomph follows the left l…
If you walk uphill from Death and Transfiguration for about 20 yards, you reach a saddle that allows you to walk carefully down a fern-and- poison- ivy- filled gully to the south. This little valley separates the lower section of the Fourth Flatiron from the upper section. A short ways down this valley to the left is what Roach calls the Gash, and Tony calls the alley. The alley separates Green Mountain Pinnacle from the Fourth Flatiron. This is the location for Tonys route which faces due South within the alley. Pilaf is reached by walking farther down the fern filled gully to the south, past the alley for 30 yards or so. Pilaf is on the west facing side of the lower Fourth Flatiron and the best landmark is to locate a green sling on horn that is protection on a climb called Arc de Triumph, that is to the right of Pilaf. Oct 26, 2007
Around Boulder, CO
And thanks for correcting the errors- it'll be listed independantly in the upcoming Haas book! Oct 27, 2007
Belaying in the crack above the lip of the wall requires several (or two, again, depending on how you roll) pieces in the #3/#4 (new) Camalot range. I used a #3.5 and #4 Friend, along with a creatively placed big-ass stopper. Aug 15, 2009
Westminster, CO