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Routes in Chief's Head Peak

Aquavelva - aka Headdress - aka Chickens on Ice? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5 M5
Chiefshead Northeast Ramp aka Slant Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2 M1-2 X
Northwest Ledges T PG13
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, Grade III
FA: Greg Sievers, May 6, 1989?
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Late in the season, the upper part of this huge ramp on the 'east' side of Chief's Head Peak holds good WI2 ice that we soloed. To get to this, there is a broken one pitch rock band that must be gained below the saddle between Spearhead and Chief's Head. You want this to be frozen when you climb this rock.


Descend the Stoneman saddle between CH and McHenry's. We couldn't, we arrived at the ridge and were met with gale force winds and had to descend out Wild Basin. Boy, my wife was mad since I was out 36 hours.


A couple of moderate cams for the rock pitch plus some nuts. Don't take a lot of gear.


Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
I solo'ed this ramp route on May 6, 1989. Agreed that the mixed ice/rock start was the crux. I labeled it Slant Gully and enjoyed moderate alpine ice and steep snow all the way to the east shoulder of the peak. Don't be fooled - it's still a long hike to the summit from there. Btw: I took a good screamer on the way down, when the snow ripped off the top of the black ice below. Cartwheeled and self arrested prior to terminal velocity. Had to get creative to downclimb the wet & running rock at the base, sans ice. Jul 24, 2008

More About Chiefshead Northeast Ramp aka Slant Gully

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