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Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 2.6 from 213
FA: Greg Donaldson, Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 4/1967. FFA: Bob Crawford, Don Harder, 9/1974
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Lower Town Wall
> Great Northern Slab
Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2019. This includes climbs in the Black Sea area of the Upper Cheeks. The Perverse Traverse is open to reach the Beach area, but if any defensive behavior is observed, climbers should leave the surrounding area & report activity: email@example.com. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program this year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
This is a fun route and a nice way to approach Breakfast of Champions. An initial wide layback crack leads to some broken block climbing. There are chains about 60 feet up that I just clipped and continued on up all in one pitch. The upper corner involves really fun stemming and great exposure. The pitch ends at the obvious tree.
For a belay anchor and rappel point, use the chain anchor with rap rings on the wall next to the tree. A 70m will get you to the ground. It's recommended to rap to the first set of chains if you have a 60m and do it in two raps.
I approached this by walking towards Princely Ambitions (which is found by heading right on the approach trail when it forks). Right before the Lower Wall is reached you can scramble up a well-traveled path (class 3) to a large, dirty ledge. Roger's Corner is directly above and can be identified by the wide layback corner.
Double TCUs-#3 Camalot and nuts. Long slings helpful if you do it all in one pitch.