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Routes in Comp Rock - East Face

Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mantle Dynamics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mein Komp T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kevin Pogue
Page Views: 2,427 total, 17/month
Shared By: Zeb Kenyon on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This shares the start of Continental Crust but continues straight up the arete. The arete may seem a bit exposed to some but it's almost impossible to climb above your protection on this one. A couple of "cruxy" moves in the middle spice up the route and as you may have guessed at least one is a mantle.

Location

Southeast side of Competition Rock.

Protection

18 bolts plus chain anchors
Dan Mathews
  5.10a
Dan Mathews  
  5.10a
Very fun route with several cruxes. I laughed when I saw the first two bolts, then quickly realized the first moves were harder than they appeared! Aug 28, 2014
Interesting point about being easier than "Red Rib". For sure. Thanks to Kevin Pogue for all those bolts. Clipping about half of them make it feel more "old school", if you're in to that sort of thing. Jun 9, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
No way is this harder than Red Rib. 5.10a. You're also on TR the whole time, but this is super fun. Jan 3, 2014
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
One of the most unique climbs I've ever had the pleasure of doing - extremely fun. So well bolted, you feel like you're on top rope the whole climb. Bring 18 draws if you plan to clip them all - I was able to comfortably retrieve draws below me at least 6 times to conserve. Oct 29, 2013
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.10b
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.10b
Super cool climb with great movement. Like all Kevin Pogue routes, there are a ton of bolts, but you can always skip a few if you don't feel like essentially being on toprope for every move. Nov 29, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great climbing on this one - even if you clip every bolt you only need about 10 draws cause you can grab every other one at your knees as needed. Oct 6, 2011
Good Good Fun. Kevin does seem to use a lot of bolts, if ya feel like skippin em, skip em. May 11, 2011
Shaft
Salt Lake City
 
Shaft   Salt Lake City
 
Awesome looking line, and like the (new) guidebook says, "more bolts than a small town hardware store" which lessens the route.

Great position and moves but do you really need a bolt at your feet/waist/shoulders at the same time? Jun 29, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
The mantle move onto the gigantic chicken head at the start of the route is super cool. Really nice route. Sep 7, 2008