Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: (TR) Loren Scott & Chris Miller, 7/97, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, 7/97
Page Views: 2,864 total · 19/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


106 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Up the vertical face left of Nervous Twitch is this fun and popular moderate. Large features down low lead to the crux, a short somewhat steeper sequence on smaller holds; the route finishes with a mantle onto a ledge with anchors.

Not as long or continuous in nature as some of the other routes of the grade here, but still a fun climb.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderbird)
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Perhaps a heady lead for the grade but great moves. This is a fun route that should not be overlooked, whether looking for a warm-up or somewhere to TR for your newbie friends. Jun 16, 2007
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.7+
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.7+
I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.

The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature. Sep 10, 2007
Steve Powell  
5.8+
thought this one to be harder than 5.7 Apr 27, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I'm wondering if this one has uprated over the years. Maybe some holds have gone missing? Seems it was always a cruiser, now it feels much harder. Maybe I'm just getting old but my friends and I all thought Medicine Man to be harder than Bird of Prey. Aug 7, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
Seems like a stiff lead at 5.7, steep with some trickiness, and harder than Shoot at Will I therefore give it 5.8. Jul 3, 2009
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8. Jul 26, 2010
Eric DeHaven
  5.8
Eric DeHaven  
  5.8
Agreed with the rest, a bit heady. For a first time leader the start to the first bolt might be a bit intimidating. Fun route none the less but I put it at a 5.8 as well Jun 27, 2011
I was climbing this route about a week ago and found the higher of the two anchor bolts (those shared by the Thunderbird route) was loose. The hanger is not loose on the bolt, rather the body of the bolt is lose in the bolt hole. When weighted the main body of the bolt has some play. Just a warning to those climbing this route. The bolt should probably be replaced. Oct 3, 2012
Heady start to be sure if this is one's grade. Several moves off the deck before the first bolt and the feet are not small but they are not massive and the fall could be serious if blown.

A fun line that is not as obvious as it looks. Jul 25, 2014
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.7
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.7
This is a very well protected 5.7 climb. Fun and short. All the holds are good. I don't see anything "heady" about leading this route. Climb it and enjoy. Sheesh. Aug 18, 2016