Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob Cockel, 1992, Direct Start: Rick Shull & Chris Miller, June 2000
Page Views: 450 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

This is the right-most climb on the east face and identified as a face capped by a short but impressive headwall.

Climb featured face past plates and edges (5.8) to the base of the headwall where long reaches and interesting body positioning gain the anchors atop the route.

° Originally done by climbing the crack to the left before tackling the headwall, the direct start adds more interesting moves and straightens out the line, making it more popular.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Tozankyaku
  5.9
Tozankyaku  
  5.9
Acording to Hidden Treasures East Big Bear Basin this is a 5.10a

The FA Bob Cockel 1992 was in the crack to the left and is a great climb with some thin holds and certainly worth the 5.10a rating. The face climb to the right by Rick Shull and C miller in 2000 would be the easier 5.9 Jul 6, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
I wouldn't put too much stock in the guidebook ratings as they tend to be inflated by a letter grade or two.

The face to the right may be easier, but it's more enjoyable, and the crux for either start is still the finishing block. Jul 7, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
What a fantastic climb. Lots of cool steep face moves on good holds with a reachy crux right at the top. Jun 15, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun fun route, maybe the best on the wall. Lower section as CM mentioned is easier climbing but the crux on the headwall provides the most delicious treat that I couldn't see until I started making the moves. Good stuff! Aug 3, 2013
Repose climbing  
5.9-
Thought we were doing medicine man, ended sending this beauty. Crux to me is towards the top trying to get comfortable position and reaching far left and getting some fingers into the thin crack, helps if your tall. No wonder it felt spicy for 5.7! Sep 20, 2013
dholte
Mountain View, CA
5.9
dholte   Mountain View, CA
5.9
My opinion: its probably 5.7 to the last bolt (as long as you're looking left/right for the 5.7 path) followed by two moves of 5.9 and a jug at the top. If you follow the boltline directly, and skip all the huge jugs, its substantially harder.

Would be a good lead for people who have never lead a .9 before. Since the crux is high, well-protected, and the fall would be clean. May 12, 2014
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9+
I think this is one of the best for the grade here. Awesome movements on thin holds for the top half. Not overprotected, which makes it great. It's a stout 5.9, but on par, say, with Golden Poodle. Mar 6, 2016