Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Chris Miller, June 2001
Page Views: 535 total · 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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15 Opinions

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Description

A lower face section (5.10+) gains a stance below the crux headwall where small but positive crimps lead up a slightly overhanging wall to a hidden finishing jug at the top.

Fairly continuous in nature throughout with fun moves and good protection. The anchor needs to be lowered however to prevent undue rope damage.

Location

Located in the center of the wall, just right of Shootin' Blanks and a short ways left of Pistol Whipped.

Protection

7 bolts, sport anchors

Photos

Jeff Edge
  5.11d
Jeff Edge  
  5.11d
Thought this route was awesome, might be hard to put the anchors anywhere better due to the juggy dike at the end. Nov 18, 2014
Will Cornell
  5.12a
Will Cornell  
  5.12a
Very nice route. cool, committing moves with a great view. The crux face is perfect. Personally, I thought this one was slightly harder than "the hangin judge" 5.11d, and the book calls it a 5.12b so Ill call it a 5.12a -- though a bit soft for that grade May 3, 2015
Wei Hu
San Diego, CA
Wei Hu   San Diego, CA
Beware of bats nesting under the second undercling flake that goes up and to the left! Aug 15, 2016
Trevor Barbier
  5.11d
Trevor Barbier  
  5.11d
I managed to break off the bottom half of the big crimpy rail at the end of the crux, in November 2017. It's still totally doable, but it makes that last move a bit harder and further. Apr 22, 2018