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Routes in Wall of the Waltzing Witches

All in Good Time S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beautiful Wickedness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How 'Bout a Little Fire? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Turn Back If I Were You S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm Melting S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
People Do Go Both Ways S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Somewhere S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Talk Me Out Of It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
That's You All Over S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What a World S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 1,267 total · 8/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

No real crux, fairly sustained climbing on mostly good holds, bulge just below anchors. Tallest climb on this wall.

Location

Sixth route from right end of Wall of Waltzing Witches, left of the two juniper trees in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8+
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8+
This was a fun route. I though it was harder than Talk me out of it, or maybe just scarier. Definitely exposed with a great view at the top. I thought there were two cruxes, one when you are standing on the obvious big horn about halfway up and the other harder crux pulling over the last bolt to get the chains.

8 bolts + chain and rap anchor(slightly spinning, probably due to rock crumble as the bolt and nut seem plenty tight.) Sep 11, 2006
Chelsea Cook
  5.8
Chelsea Cook  
  5.8
I think both of the 8's on this wall are trickier than the 9's. Really, the 9's have only one or two 9 moves on them and then get easier. They are also more obvious and straightforward than the 8's. I think this is definitely a 5.8 climb. Mar 22, 2009
Eric Sophiea  
 
Climb is to the left of two Silver Leaf Oak trees (not Juniper, as in the description) and to the right of a PiƱon Pine. Great climb for the grade with a ton of fun movement that keeps you on your game till the end. It's three star climbing at this grade, frankly, but maybe just a bit too short to be a three star climb by itself. However, the view from the top is fantastic and earns it another star! Apr 20, 2014
Josiah Rabon
Tucson, AZ
Josiah Rabon   Tucson, AZ
Most of the holds on this route feel more like a 7 but there are definitely some finger tip stuff to work through. Because of how long it is I can see it being rated an 8 but over all I'd say it is more like a 7. You do get a lot of exposure as soon as you get above the trees at the base and because of how the terrain is slanted downhill it seems like you are higher than you actually are. The views are great and worth doing for sure. One more thing, you can easily set up a top rope on this route without leading it first, just find the chains and it is an easy hike/scramble to the top where you can lean over and set it up. *NOTE* I'd bring a buddy to hold your feet as you lean over May 1, 2015

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