Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dwain Warren et al, 1991
Page Views: 668 total · 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is a steep, sustained finger crack.


Just to the right of Nobody's Right Mind


Standard rack, with emphasis on smaller pieces


tony grice  
Scary pro down low, watch out bro. Nov 10, 2006
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
This route is good... poor rock, funky moves, a roof encounter, and then some steep thin crack action. Take plenty of the 2" cams and start tossing them in as you go... you'll want them. Seemed relatively continuous until well over the roof with plenty of awkward moves on some suspect rock. You can belay with some medium cams and a slung horn before the summit. I rapped off this same horn, or you could top out and find a scramble down, probably to climbers left. Mar 3, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
From the base this route looks like it takes positive pro using a two crack system in dark rock. However, the start is a bit awkward as the rock down low is of the same flaky nature as it's neighboring route to the left. Climbing over the roof is small fingers and again much more awkward than it appears from below.

Good climbing that is not gimme for the lead.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007
Trivial walk off climbers left, left of Peabody's peril. This one is a "Josh Classic" for sure. Mar 5, 2007
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I thought the pro was fine. A #4 goes snuggly into the pod at the start, followed by a small nut to pro the first committing move. After that mostly plug and chug. Some of the rock is suspect, especially for stemming moves, definitely not a gimme. Overall, a very good climb. Nov 24, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Much like the late M. Yabarra I was able to put in a large piece down low in a pod. #3 worked but looked to want to walk #3.5 was a bit tight but either is golden. Placed some mystery micro cam at the cross section which was bomber. Wiggle, stand up, hands, gear, repeat.

I wouldn't call this all fingers plenty of hand jams to satisfy both the men & ladies alike. Crack takes excellent gear with pretty clean walls as well.

Murf might be making fun, but oddly it is like a Josh Classic. Wasn't aware or didn't recall walk off climber's leftÂ…. went up a small chimney to the summit then down some blocks and shimming down climber's right cursing how this crag could benefit from a convenience anchor. Sorry Murf, but I could have biffed it when my little rabbit runner knot got choked in a crack and almost pitched me face first down the slabs. Bolts, that's what this crag needs! Nov 25, 2013
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain
Las Vegas, Nevada
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain   Las Vegas, Nevada
When I did the FA of this climb, the rock was really loose. I had my belayer, David Titus,
stand to the side while belaying me. Huge flakes and loose rock was coming off in my hand,
and I didn't want any of it hitting him. It was rough, cleaning while leading it. No hammers or any tools,
except hands and feet were used to clean up the climb. I would go up and clean a section, downclimb and rest, and then go up and clean off another section, till the whole climb was completed.

After I was finished cleaning I re led it for the first clean ascent.
The The FA was me and David Titus, 2nd ascent right afterwards was Mark woods(RIP), and Tim from Pennsylvania, and 3rd Ascent Was 2 Austrailians We met in the campground.

The cleaning, and the first 3 ascents were all done on the same day.
That is why when I submitted the route I put down as the FAers, 2 locals, 2 Aussies, a surf bum,
and a Gentleman from Pennsylvania.

There is another Climb not too far to the right that we did the next day called," Sitting around the campfire telling Fish Stories." May 6, 2014