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Routes in Patagonia Pile - West Face

Etta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Filet of Rock Shark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nobody's Right Mind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patagucci T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peabody's Peril T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Student Unrest T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Synchilla Burgers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows the crack just right of Peabody's Peril. It is loose and unpleasant.

Protection

Standard rack plus one bolt.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Six years later…….crack takes nice gear, elected for middle crack this time and was quite nice. I suspect they all go at about the same grade. The surrounding face is a little flakey in areas which has you paying attention as to where you put your feet. Bomber hands so it's not likely fear of blowing but rather raining down on the belayer. Bumped the star rating to 2. Couldn't remember the walk off so we headed up and down the boulders to the south. Nov 25, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
It must have cleaned up because the rock was pretty good and so was the gear. Overall ti was similar to Peabody's Peril. Same grade, same quality of protection, similar moves. Nov 29, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route from the ground appears that it would eat up nuts. As it is however, I was only able to place a few nuts and opted for the use of cams instead (single set of small & large and doubles of medium)

Climb the obvious crack at the start using the flaky face for your left foot. Midway you approach a two crack system - take the left crack and further up you'll hit a varnished face with a right leaning crack. Look for a 4" horizontal crack that separates the top block. Just to the right side of there, you can set the anchor on large block. Consider saving a few 2"-3" cams for the anchor. You can down climb by sneaking under a boulder behind the belay and off to the north down a ramp.

Not as good as it's neighbor but good enough while in the area.

~Susan Mar 3, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Not as good as the route next door, (Pebodies Peril) but will do since you are here. Thin stuff at the start on fair to poor rock leads to a wide section that you can pro with some 4" stuff while climbing on the face. Look for the old bolt stud out right... no hanger and useless. Finally some nice patina shows up, drop in a thin nut or cam, and follow a cracked face up and right to a blocky top out. Use the descent ramp to climbers right. Mar 3, 2007