Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,600 total · 10/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Jun 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Box Canyon is privately owned. Details


First climb on the wall.


8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


- No Photos -
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
A unique stemming problem for sure! Not really a warmup as you don't use your arms. Stem your way up the chimney on the right side of the wall past a few bolts. When you near the roof, climb onto a large ledge inside the chimney and traverse out, above the anchors of Devil's Plaything, and Downloader to the chains of Watermelon Sugar. The rock is not the best when you reach the roof, so be careful! I also had and incredibly hard time spotting the bolts as it was a little dark in the there and there are bolts on both walls. I didn't want to search for them so I only clipped every 2nd or 3rd at the top but don't despair, they are actually there. Aug 19, 2012
5.10a PG13
5.10a PG13
First let me say this is a Bill Boyle route so you know the rating is not going to be soft, in fact as you'd expect from Bill the climb is at best old-school 5.8 (aka much harder than 5.8).

Second let me say, be prepared for pigeons and there mess (shit, etc).

Since this page includes no description for the climb, allow me to try...

As you walk up Box Canyon it turns to the right within a few hundred yards. At the right turn, on the left side is the ice climb "Tennis Shoe Slab". As soon as you make that right the wall directly ahead of you is The Ammon Dump wall, and Man Muncher is right most climb. The ice climb The Dagger (with it's arch) is on the far left of the wall).

As you look up to the right notice a wide crack, high up. This is where the pigeons live and where the climb goes into. Start on the east wall and follow the bolts and chalk up to the wide crack. Enter the crack and watch out of the pigeons. I literally reached across the crack, and put my hand onto a lazy pigeon that I couldn't see in the shadows - doing that is startling. Look around for the bolt on the west side of the crack (it's dark in the crack, and the bolt is brown). This is when the climb becomes PG13... With the bolt clipped stem through the crack moving out to the north. Enjoy the exposure. Round the corner, and exit the crack by turning to the east. The next two bolts and anchors are on the original east side wall 80 ft or so above (and a few feet to the north) of where the climb began. Clip the affixed carabineer like anchors, and be lowered off.

Someone else will need to follow the leader, as it would be very tough to clean this route while being lowered.

Rumor has it that this climb was a right of passage, back in the day. Old school legend claims newbies to Maple Canyon were required to make this wandering exposed climb before being allowed access to the rest of Maple Canyon. Sep 18, 2016
Shadow Ayala
Lexington, KY
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, KY
Brilliant!! What a treat. May 30, 2017