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Routes in Matterhorn Peak
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Double Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow PG13 |
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East Couloir Mod. Snow |
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North Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ski Dreams Mod. Snow |
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West Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jerry Gallwas, Wally Kodis, Don Wilson. September, 1954 |
| Page Views: | 27,720 total · 123/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jun 25, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
From Twin Lakes hike south along the Horse Creek Trail, when it heads up and left keep going south along Horse Creeek, at about 8600' cut right and head up steep terrain towards the peak. Limited campsites.
The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected. The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock. Once on the summit ridge, move toward the southwest and trend up toward the summit.
About 7 pitches. (A direct start start, 5.9, begins at the toe of the buttress). Hike up left of the toe of the buttress and follow a CL4 corner and ramp to a large ledge at the top of the direct start (2 pitches, 5.7).For about 2 pitches stay right of the buttress (5.7), then pass through a notch, and trend left towards the finishing corner (see photo, or climb arete to left to avoid masochism), left of the main arete (3 pitches 5.7). Final steep crack is the crux.
The ridge to the summit is then followed for about 2 pitches.
Descent: Head down to the east gully, and follow it either on loose scree, or nice snow depending upon the season.
The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected. The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock. Once on the summit ridge, move toward the southwest and trend up toward the summit.
About 7 pitches. (A direct start start, 5.9, begins at the toe of the buttress). Hike up left of the toe of the buttress and follow a CL4 corner and ramp to a large ledge at the top of the direct start (2 pitches, 5.7).For about 2 pitches stay right of the buttress (5.7), then pass through a notch, and trend left towards the finishing corner (see photo, or climb arete to left to avoid masochism), left of the main arete (3 pitches 5.7). Final steep crack is the crux.
The ridge to the summit is then followed for about 2 pitches.
Descent: Head down to the east gully, and follow it either on loose scree, or nice snow depending upon the season.
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