Avg: 2.7 from 31 votes
Routes in Matterhorn Peak
|Double Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|North Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jerry Gallwas, Wally Kodis, Don Wilson. September, 1954|
|Page Views:||13,988 total, 100/month|
|Shared By:||Jake Burkey on Jun 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionFrom Twin Lakes hike south along the Horse Creek Trail, when it heads up and left keep going south along Horse Creeek, at about 8600' cut right and head up steep terrain towards the peak. Limited campsites.
The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout. The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected. The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock. Once on the summit ridge, move toward the southwest and trend up toward the summit.
About 7 pitches. (A direct start start, 5.9, begins at the toe of the buttress). Hike up left of the toe of the buttress and follow a CL4 corner and ramp to a large ledge at the top of the direct start (2 pitches, 5.7).For about 2 pitches stay right of the buttress (5.7), then pass through a notch, and trend left towards the finishing corner (see photo, or climb arete to left to avoid masochism), left of the main arete (3 pitches 5.7). Final steep crack is the crux.
The ridge to the summit is then followed for about 2 pitches.
Descent: Head down to the east gully, and follow it either on loose scree, or nice snow depending upon the season.