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Routes in Quarry Wall

Charlie And The Chaco FActory V1 5
Double B T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Way S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monosmear S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old'n S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Xenolith S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Stewart Green and Martha Morris, August 2004
Page Views: 2,839 total, 20/month
Shared By: Anna Moore on Jun 25, 2006 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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61 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Climb up the slab just to the right of the quarry. Edge and smear up perfect sandstone to anchors just below the ledge rim (thanks, Stewart). Has a great place at the top to belay from, and also you can climb over the top to a large flat area with a great view.

Location

This is far left route on Quarry Wall, and it uses the same last bolt and anchors as Monosmear (5.8).

GPS coordinates: 38.84411, -104.88308.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Also has an eye-bolt at the base for the belayer.
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Great slabby route. Have taken many a beginner up, with most succeeding on TR in their street shoes. Although it's an easy route, it does not make a good solo, due to the fact that it is a very balance-y route on sandstone. Definitely got a little more nervous up there than I would have wanted when I took it solo. Feb 3, 2017
Blake Roberts
Denver, CO
  5.5
Blake Roberts   Denver, CO
  5.5
Just climbed this yesterday with the wife: my first lead and her first outdoor climb! It was an absolute blast, great bolt placement, great views, and and overall great time. The section just below the fourth bolt seemed to us to be the crux.

Can't wait to get back to RRCOS. Apr 27, 2014
I thought this was a very nice easy lead for new climbers. The gf led it as her second lead. Then a son and dad came up and the son led it. Very cool exposure. Oct 22, 2011
Will Bluster
Elizabeth, CO
  5.5
Will Bluster   Elizabeth, CO
  5.5
I echo the double 4ft runner suggestion above. That edge is kind of sharp & won't do your rope any favors.

If the exposure is freaky, try a little layback against the arete. Apr 14, 2008
Raymond Johnson
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Raymond Johnson   Boulder, CO
  5.6
If you don't mind the exposure, the quarry "steps" align perfectly with the four bolts leading up to the anchor, allowing a good stance for clipping. You'll want two double runners (4 ft) for the anchor to avoid running your rope across the rock. Nov 11, 2007
ty.
Colorado Springs
  5.6 PG13
ty.   Colorado Springs
  5.6 PG13
This was a nice climb, with a great view at the top and a comfortable spot to belay at the top. Although the physical climb wasn't too difficult, the psychological aspect of climbing the edge of a quarry may increase the difficulty. Nov 9, 2006
Anna Moore  
 
We climbed this yesterday. It really freaked me out to climb right on the edge of the quarry, so if anyone has any tips on how to do this route, I'd love to hear them. There was also some areas that looked like they had once been handholds that had been broken off but I can't be sure. To me this route was harder than the 5.5 rating given in the book but then again, I could just suck. When we rappelled we went down Monosmear which let us avoid the pine tree. Over all though my favorite part was definitely the view from the top. Jun 25, 2006