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Routes in Westbay Wall

Billy's Ghost Dance S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jason's Bicep S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nose in a Day S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green
Page Views: 5,678 total · 38/month
Shared By: Anna Moore on Jun 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details


The 1st two bolts are the same as Billy's Ghost Dance. Once you get past the second bolt, there's a lot of loose rock. It also breaks off pretty easily, so be super gentle on it. After the third bolt, there's a smooth section that goes to the face you have to climb up and over to get to the anchors. The place to stand at the top is really small. We had a tough time having two people up there and still being able to maneuver.


The route starts the same as Billy's Ghost Dance but instead of continuing straight after the first 2 bolts you head up to the right to the left of the small, pine tree.


This is 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The right anchor was loose, the bolt hanger spun a bit but was still secure, the bolt did not move out of the rock at all just moved around. Suggest you just keep a close eye on it.


Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
Jim Gloeckler   Denver, Colo.
High first bolt, but easy climbing to get to it. Overall a good route, but I think it felt more like 5.5 than 5.6. Just fun! Anchors seemed fine to me. Mar 17, 2010
If you notice in the past few printings of the Red Rock Canyon climbing guide, I did drop the rating on Nose in a Day to 5.5. Apr 29, 2010
Matt Payne
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt Payne   Colorado Springs, CO
Very fun beginner route! May 5, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Fantastic route for the grade. A little of everything and love the roof to finish! Mar 24, 2011
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
And a great route name to go with it. Thanks for everything, Billy. A true climbing legend. Jul 26, 2013
Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
This route is basically worth doing because of the last roof move. Pretty exposed for a route of this grade. Sep 14, 2014
Cody E
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody E   Colorado Springs, CO
Beginner climber here, I like this route a lot. Climbed it once on TR, my second time I got to clean it. It's fun, and the roof is a good, awkward challenge for a noob like me. Great views from atop. Practiced cleaning the TR anchor here today, the rings are pretty badly worn and have some gnarly wearing/grooves worn into them. Sep 14, 2014
Colorado springs, CO
tiffany   Colorado springs, CO
Fun route. This was our second climb in this area. Billy's Ghost Dance climb felt a bit more challenging because of the smooth slab section. This climb is worth doing, & the roof move is fun. The rap rings are definitely worn and have some edges. Good beginner climb with a fantastic view at the top! Oct 10, 2015
Brandon Bell
Colorado Springs, CO
Brandon Bell   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun, easy lead. Very comfortable, airy belay perch at the top. Good spot to watch the climbers on the Whale and to get gawked at by small children.

The rap rings showed heavy wear. The grooves, while smooth, were almost halfway through, probably due to extensive top-roping through the rap rings. All the other bolts and hangers were in good shape and well placed to protect the route. Mar 14, 2016

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