Type: Sport, 285 ft (86 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jason Stevens, Jared Nielson
Page Views: 4,380 total · 25/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Jun 25, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


68 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The roof on the second pitch is the crux. The hold are there, just get your head in the game. This is a fun climb just for the overall exposure and the great views of the canyon. You can see everything from the top of this climb. The entire route can be climbed and descended with a single 60M rope.

P1: Climb shattered cobbles on a low angle face. The beginning is harder than it looks. Follow bolts through low angle faces and corners to a set of anchors 10' right of "Pandoras Box", the shrub-filled hole on the wall left of the climb. 5.8, 25M

P2: Continue up the face moving back and forth slightly though shallow corners, then trend left and across the face near the end of the pitch. 5.7, 28M

P3: This pitch is the pièce de résistance. The short roof right off the belay is engaging, exposed and exciting. It's not overly difficult, and the crux is over in a few moves. Pull huge cobbles just right of the banana-shaped flake that forms this final pitch. Rap from anchors, 5.9, 30M.

If you want to carry extra quickdraws and save time, it is possible to link P1 and P2 together into one long pitch.

Location

The first pitch starts left of the column and follow meandering bolts up a rib for about 185' to the overhang. The second pitch pulls the overhang and follows big jugs up the flake for about 80'. Rappel the route to get off. Requires two 60M ropes.

Protection

First pitch takes 20 quick draws to the chain belay. Second pitch takes about 10 quick draws to the chains.

Photos