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Routes in Rightovers

5.8 Start T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Brown Sugar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Excellent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flake Out aka Gill Route TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left Y Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 119 total · 1/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jun 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Once you get above the tree, this route is terrific.

This route is the crack left of Brown Sugar , and has a small tree growing out of the crack halfway up it. Based on the amount of dirt in the crack below the tree, no one does this route.

You could certainly climb this with gear, but if you fall on the no-pro 11c face that is before the dirt-filled crack below the small tree, my guess is that you would hit the ledge, roll off it, then fall to your death. Which would be unfortunate since the 5.8 hand crack above the tree is such a pleasure. Great jams, good feet, a pleasure.

Location

Obvious walkoff left.

Protection

Climb Brown Sugar and set anchors with cams at the top. It's easy to set up a good top rope. Then rap down to the ledge -- no problem with a 60m rope. Work the 11c section or start Brown Sugar and do an exciting pendulum to the Gill crack.

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