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Routes in e. Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962
Page Views: 15,016 total · 102/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.

P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.

Location

Park beside the dome and lake. The book should be obvious as long as you're not on the extreme east end of the dome.

Protection

The biggest pieces you got. A few bolts provided for anchors.
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Do not traverse left on the last pitch veering up and left across the open unprotected face unless you are a masochist. The unprotected chimneys were casual compared to that damn face. Continue straight up instead. Jun 26, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun 5.6. Sep 12, 2006
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.6 R
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.6 R
Also the easiest way to get down if you are soloing! Face out on the way down...it sounds scarier than it is. May 12, 2007
In my opinion this is one of the most overrated climbs in Tuolumne. Everyone does it, often as their first real lead, but it's run out and dangerous for inexperienced leaders. There are a half a dozen routes on this rock that are better climbs including: South Crack, Dixie Peach, Hermaphodite Flake, West Country, Table of Contents an others. Dec 5, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Great climb. Maybe too much beta in the description? Maybe not - it is a beta page after all. But I'm glad I didn't see this description before climbing the line. Jul 13, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.6 X
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.6 X
Without big cams you could fall a long, long way on the groove pitch. Found this a lot more frightening than most 5.9s! May 8, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Yes, big cams are necessary. A few summers ago I sprained my ankle while in the area and was relegated to toproping/seconding climbs close to the road for a few days. My wife chose the Great White Book as a climb to lead me up. At the car I said, "don't you think you should take a couple of big cams." "Oh no," she replied, "I don't want to carry those big, heavy things." Sure enough, we get to the wide corner pitch and none of her cams will fit so she just ran it out the whole pitch. Yikes! May 8, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
 
at the end of 2 I traversed left under the long mini-roof. I thought there might be protection in there somewhere but there's nothing. I don't recommend that route. continue straight up. Jan 12, 2010
The first ascent of this route was done considerably earlier by Hope Meek and Jim Baldwin; probably around 1964-1965. Jul 29, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
If you know how to handle basic chimneys & OW, 1 set of cams from #0.3-#6 C4 is enough for plenty secure climbing. Just make sure you realize that this is the real deal for wide climbing and make sure you're familiar with pushing & resetting cams.

Don't get sucked too far in? I climbed all of the wide pitches left side in and went deep inside on the squeeze chimney parts. I was super solid and secure, singing and taking pictures the whole way on lead. Burrow in, just don't get stuck :-)

The last traversing pitch was the only real "R" part of the climb in my opinion (there are many many routes of this wide type in the Valley that do not get an "R" designation but have similar type of 'runouts'). It's not too bad if you lead 5.8 slab, but I did wonder about that more natural, direct line, with pro, leading straight up from the piton to the end . . . Aug 6, 2012
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Run your 60m out to combine Supertopo's P1/P2.

Older Camalots (4.5 red and 5 green) worked fine for P2 - just place and go, don't bother bumping; that makes it harder. Full, single set of cams is plenty.
Wandering left across the final slabs was heady-er than the book runouts, but all there with a few variations available.

FUN 5.6 that gets you breathing hard. Aug 6, 2013
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
Clint Cummins   Palo Alto, CA
First ascent: Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962 Aug 6, 2014
Manderson198
  5.6 R
Manderson198  
  5.6 R
Make sure you have at least a #5 C4, or be prepared to do the wide pitch without pro. It's secure though, and a fall is unlikely. Also, don't get a late start, because doing the slabby traverse pitch in the dark is precarious, to say the least. Aug 22, 2015
Andrew Child
Santa Clara
  5.6 R
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
  5.6 R
We brought a 3.5 a 4 and a 4.5 as our wide pro. Ended up climbing the second pitch with the 4.5 completely tipped out for the first half and a solid #4 placement for the second half. Climbing was secure enough that it wasn't a big deal.

Small cams like an alien or a #1 metolious would have been useful for building a belay in the small roof at the top of the third pitch. After navigating the small roof on the fourth pitch we wondered up right across the slabs and found a bolted belay. More runout slabs after the belay give way to a few right facing cracks that you can follow to the top. Sep 5, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Utterly classic for the grade. Find a better 5.6 in the world on better stone. I'll be waiting :). Jan 23, 2018
Ben Horowitz
Berkeley
 
Ben Horowitz   Berkeley
 
Awesome climb, best "5.6" I've done. I was an idiot and kicked my #6 while squirming up pitch 2, very much fixing it... If anyone manages to retrieve it, I would trade them any other size cam (plus my gratitude) for it! Otherwise enjoy it for your future wide exploits. Jun 10, 2018
Be sure to build an anchor and end the 3rd pitch at the top of the corner before heading out onto the face unless you are climbing with a 70m. The bolted anchor at the top of South crack is just barely reachable with a 60m and you literally have to stretch the rope or simul to make it with no other anchors available. Big stuff recommended or be prepared to free solo long sections (or whole pitches)...5.6 for 5.9 Climbers due to spice runout wide and the corner has gotten slicker over time. Jun 22, 2018

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