All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome

Great White Book

Name: Great White Book
Rating: 3.2

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R

Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Arch Rival T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Turkey Trot S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Water streak #2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA:	Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962
Page Views:	23,029 total · 114/month
Shared By:	Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.

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Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.

P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.