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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962 |
| Page Views: | 14,434 total · 100/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15
Details
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Description
A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
Salt Lake City, UT
W. Lebanon, NH
Oakland, CA
Cheshire, UK
Glenwood Springs, CO
Flagstaff, AZ
Draper
Don't get sucked too far in? I climbed all of the wide pitches left side in and went deep inside on the squeeze chimney parts. I was super solid and secure, singing and taking pictures the whole way on lead. Burrow in, just don't get stuck :-)
The last traversing pitch was the only real "R" part of the climb in my opinion (there are many many routes of this wide type in the Valley that do not get an "R" designation but have similar type of 'runouts'). It's not too bad if you lead 5.8 slab, but I did wonder about that more natural, direct line, with pro, leading straight up from the piton to the end . . . Aug 6, 2012
Santa Barbara, CA
Older Camalots (4.5 red and 5 green) worked fine for P2 - just place and go, don't bother bumping; that makes it harder. Full, single set of cams is plenty.
Wandering left across the final slabs was heady-er than the book runouts, but all there with a few variations available.
FUN 5.6 that gets you breathing hard. Aug 6, 2013
Palo Alto, CA
Santa Clara
Small cams like an alien or a #1 metolious would have been useful for building a belay in the small roof at the top of the third pitch. After navigating the small roof on the fourth pitch we wondered up right across the slabs and found a bolted belay. More runout slabs after the belay give way to a few right facing cracks that you can follow to the top. Sep 5, 2017
Citrus Heights