Cardiac Arete (aka Talisman)
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Laeger & Miledi|
|Page Views:||141 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe distinction between this route and the "Golden Needles" is unclear to me. I thought they might share the first pitch, and then Golden Needles veers slightly left whereas this route follows the bolt line up. That's one possibility anyway. The other is that Golden Needles begins somewhere else?
The climbing is good - a reasonably well-protected climb up a completely rad system of ribs, scoops, and aretes.
This begins on the SE corner of the Wizard, just across from Piranha and Parasite in the same alcove from which they begin.
P1: Climb up scoops and ribs of rock past an old bolt and several new bolts to a good belay stance. Slightly run out, 5.10.
P2: Continue up the incredibly steep face and arete past many closely spaced bolts. Tread lightly through a couple cruxes on a few friable holds and flakes. Rap back down from a two-bolt anchor.
I think we got down with a single 70m rope, but don't quote me on that.