Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain

5.11a, Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 14 votes
FA: SA, MC, '94
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 6 - Mid-Mountain > Munchkinland Area > Wall of the Dancing D…

Description

Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.

Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.

Location

Start between Emerald City and Flying Monkeys in front of and slightly right of new growth off of an old tree stump.

Protection

Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.

The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Classic rope and rock photo.  The full route is shown.
[Hide Photo] Classic rope and rock photo. The full route is shown.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Just because the slot is there doesn't mean you should or have to use it Joseph. A lot more fun if you don't. If you do take a star off of it. May 12, 2009
Chen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! Forget about the slot. Nice jugs to pull on at the small roof near the top. Aug 27, 2009
[Hide Comment] For someone who knows the beta, did you go left or right of the vertical finger slot? There's good stuff to the right but I worry it's off route as it's pretty close to the holds for Flying Monkeys. Left looks really blank. Oct 24, 2015
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
[Hide Comment] I, for one, quite enjoyed using the slot on this route and would recommend that you use it as well. What do you guys have against finger slots?? Oct 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] I used it... was just wondering more whether you used your right hand in it and had your body left of it, or vice versa. Oct 25, 2015