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Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain
Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.2 from 14
FA: SA, MC, '94
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 6 - Mid-Mountain
> Munchkinland Area
> Wall of the Dancing D…
Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.
Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.
Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.
The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.