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Routes in Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs

Click Your Heels S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowardly Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dancing Dwarfs S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Emerald City S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flying Monkeys S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horse Of A Different Color S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scarecrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tin Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, MC, '94
Page Views: 1,826 total, 13/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.

Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.

Location

Start between Emerald City and Flying Monkeys in front of and slightly right of new growth off of an old tree stump.

Protection

Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.

The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.

Photos

Justin Headley   Tucson
I used it... was just wondering more whether you used your right hand in it and had your body left of it, or vice versa. Oct 25, 2015
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I, for one, quite enjoyed using the slot on this route and would recommend that you use it as well. What do you guys have against finger slots?? Oct 24, 2015
Justin Headley   Tucson
For someone who knows the beta, did you go left or right of the vertical finger slot? There's good stuff to the right but I worry it's off route as it's pretty close to the holds for Flying Monkeys. Left looks really blank. Oct 24, 2015
Chen
Tucson, AZ
Chen   Tucson, AZ
Super fun route! Forget about the slot. Nice jugs to pull on at the small roof near the top. Aug 27, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11-
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11-
Just because the slot is there doesn't mean you should or have to use it Joseph. A lot more fun if you don't. If you do take a star off of it. May 12, 2009