Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, MC, '94
Page Views: 2,047 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.

Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.

Location

Start between Emerald City and Flying Monkeys in front of and slightly right of new growth off of an old tree stump.

Protection

Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.

The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.

Photos