Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: SA, MC, '94
Page Views: 1,956 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.

Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.


Start between Emerald City and Flying Monkeys in front of and slightly right of new growth off of an old tree stump.


Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.

The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.


1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Just because the slot is there doesn't mean you should or have to use it Joseph. A lot more fun if you don't. If you do take a star off of it. May 12, 2009
Tucson, AZ
Chen   Tucson, AZ
Super fun route! Forget about the slot. Nice jugs to pull on at the small roof near the top. Aug 27, 2009
Justin Headley   Tucson
For someone who knows the beta, did you go left or right of the vertical finger slot? There's good stuff to the right but I worry it's off route as it's pretty close to the holds for Flying Monkeys. Left looks really blank. Oct 24, 2015
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
I, for one, quite enjoyed using the slot on this route and would recommend that you use it as well. What do you guys have against finger slots?? Oct 24, 2015
Justin Headley   Tucson
I used it... was just wondering more whether you used your right hand in it and had your body left of it, or vice versa. Oct 25, 2015