Young (and old!) rockers often times flash the "horns of satan" hand sign with the index and baby fingers extended. Can't miss it at rock concerts! A similar shaped feature clearly demarcates the crux lower pitches of Horns Of Satan. Look for a roof that caps a U shaped face with an arete above it.
Pitch #1: Climb past some low level looseness and 3 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.6.
Pitch #2: Follow bolts to a great ledge under a wild looking roof. Better Rock! 5.8.
Pitch #3: Climb the arete out of the U shaped bowl and belay at a bomber belay just under the main mid-way wall ledge. Great Pitch and good rock with excellent protection. 5.10b.
Pitch #4: Gingerly step out onto the main ledge and scramble out left of a tree and large boulder. You may find the one bolt on this pitch! 5.4.
Pitch #5: Pass two small roofs to a two bolt belay. 5.7.
Pitch #6: Climb left of a left facing dihedral to the "Great Ledge". 5.9.
Pitch #7: Starts out with a handcrack through strenuous roofs to wildly exposed, but well protected face climbing. This is a classic Smoot pitch...bolts are found where it won't otherwise protect with a continuously "out there" feeling. 5.10c.
Pitch #8: Surmount a roof and follow the alpine summit ridge to the top! 5.5, 200 feet.
Pitches #1 and #2 link together
Pitches #4 and #5 may be linked together
Walk off the West Ridge
One set micro camalots to #.75
One set of Camalots #1-3
QDs and many runners
Helmet!
Can combine P1 & P2 w/ long rope.
Pitch 3 is crux @ 10b w/many bolts.
Can combine P4 & P5 w/ long rope.
Pitch 7 protects w/ 4 or 5 cams 3/4" thru 3".
Recommended rack of 12 draws and 5 cams.
Enjoy the great moves! Jul 5, 2007
Salt Lake City, UT
Pocatello, ID
The route was not quite as clean as Black Streak, but I never felt like I was in danger from rockfall, either as a belayer or leader. Sure, the rock could be better in places and the ledges could be cleaner. But it's still classic in my opinion.
The whole route protects well. The only PG-13 part I encountered was the bit before the first bolt on pitch 6. There might be gear placements there somewhere, but I didn't see them.
Gear I'd take next time: Tons of slings/quickdraws (at least 14, plus whatever slings for belays). One set of cams from .3 to 3 Camalot. No nuts.
Oh, and there's a fantastic free topo from GearLoopTopo.com gearlooptopo.com/_includes/… Aug 3, 2010
PG, Utah
1) This route was as fun as I've done in a while! Pitch 3 (our #2) was classic!
2) Combine pitch 1-2 and then 4-5. There really is no reason not to.
3) The crux was on pitch 7 (our 5). The first roof is a little pumpy but there is a perfect hand jam rest right after the apex of the roof.
4) All cruxy parts have good holds. You just have to commit and all will be well. Aug 4, 2010
One or two parties a year with a small wisk broom would do this thing wonders as the rock is solid but there is just lots of pebbles on and near the holds that no one wants to rain down so they stay.
Props to the FAists. Aug 30, 2011
utah
Park City, Utah
Sonora, CA
Small Lake, UT
I'm not buying the 10- rating, the start and the roof on P3 feel like legitimate 10c/10+ to me (and it wasn't the onsight). I've done a few easier 11a routes on limestone... but your mileage may vary. Back-clean a few bolts if you've only brought 8 or 10 draws and clip some bolts long to limit drag.
Gear-wise, I placed .75, 1 and 2. There are spots for a full rack if you feel like hauling more weight but the only mandatory gear is for the short crack on P7 which is full of placements and bomber hand jams. If you want to go super light, bring a #2 and nothing else. You'll be too busy hooting your way up the crack to notice slight runout.
To echo Tenesmus' comment about rockfall, I was a bit unnerved to realize that choss falling from Black Streak can funnel straight to the top of P3. Both times I belayed from the little alcove I heard frantic shouting and a sickening impact in the dirt just above me before getting showered with dirt. Brian and James did a great job not moving the belay 10' up on the more logical ledge system where you'd be in the direct line of fire.
Final thoughts: the Castle is getting way busy. There were 7 parties up there on Saturday, 3 of them on Black Streak, 2 of them apparently oblivious to the fact that the Castle can be a dangerous place to be. I can't wrap my head around the fact that people walk to the base, see a party a few pitches up, and just start climbing below them. Or top out Black Streak and rap the line without any consideration for people they can't see climbing below them. I really hope people can take a safe approach to enjoying this alpine gem and nothing bad ever happens up there. Jul 14, 2014
Hotchkiss, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Boulder, CO
C'Wood, UT
Bolted belays with great views. Route finding straightforward. Do be aware that there are alot of loose rocks especially at the ledges and be mindful of that if parties are around or if you step wrong and could go for a skate.
We had no one around when we did it and decided to rappel Black Streak. From the top anchors of HOS - traverse the ledge (climbers right) around 50 meters or so and look for a lone half inch bolt laying flat on a rock platform near the edge then rappel down from there. Once on the first large ledge look left for the fixed rope use that to traverse over and down to the next set of anchors. Do not skip any of the rappel anchors as some just get you to the next set. Did it with a 70M which is needed to safely do all the rappels.
All in all great limestone experience with some fun climbing. Jul 5, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC