Located 250 feet to the right of Evil Eye.
Pitch #1: Face climbing to the right of a left facing corner. 5.8, 100'.
Pitch #2: Climb the overlapping roofs (The Seismic Sea Wave) with incredible position and great rock to another ledge. 5.10d, 90'.
Pitch #3: On low angle terrain, scramble to some easy 5th class to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 160'.
Pitch #4: Climb through a roof passing pitons and bolts to a gully on the left. Traverse past this gully (well protected)to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 120'.
Pitch #5: Jog left than right through another roof to underneath a groove. 5.9, 90'.
Pitch #6: Climb past 4 bolts (5.7) to the final upper headwall to the top. 5.11a.
Walk off.
Protection: One set of cams to 3.5 Camalot. QDs and runners. Helmet
Sandy, Utah
I thought p1 was maybe 5.9-ish, p5 was 5.8ish and for me, p6 finish was the crux at an awkward 5.11a (even with my A0!).
Also, we took up to a #2 camalot and didn't feel the need for anything bigger. Not sure we placed the #2 but could have. Placed only one stopper.
Fun! Jul 9, 2007
I would link p5 and half of p6 to base of final 10c(ish) headwall. Nice to have your belayer near by for those moves.
gear used - 1 hand size piece + 2rock to back up bolt(belay)for last pitch.
Did anyone mention bring a helmet?. Jul 29, 2007
The crux for me was also the last pitch 10c... 10 feet or so. Was all good and had a great time on the Castle as usual. Also still snow at the base for your beer. Cheers Steve Aug 17, 2008
Salt Lake City, UT
Just goes to show you how hard core you guys getting after it are these days up at the Castle...I was pretty intimidated by that "11a" pitch BOTH times I was on it! Right On! Also, the routes on DC tend to naturally get easier with time...Black Streak was definitely at one time 5.11a as originally rated (complete with a fern garden on pitch #2 and Pitch #3!) and now no one feels it is harder than 5.10a/b...a whole number grade down graded, pretty significant change, really!
jg Aug 18, 2008
Small Lake, UT
P2 is a bit disappointing considering the raving reviews, the move of the belay is great but the rest is pulling on loose sandy jugs. Nothing harder than 10+ but it's sustained and pumpy.
There's some questionable pro in the second half of P5 with a piton in a completely detached block and a bolt at chest level to protect the hardest move. Nice ledge fall potential, PG13. Same for P5 which is 5.7 if you're comfortable on runout choss, otherwise clench your butt cheeks and test the holds before committing. PG13+
P6 (second half of P5) has a short powerful sequence with cool pockets and intricate footwork. 10c seems inconsistent with the rest of the line, it felt quite a bit harder.
Gearwise, you could get away with only a #1. The gear you get on p3 is barely good enough to serve as a directional and keep the rope off the choss stacks. Don't fall on 5.2.
Poor choice if it's your first outing on the castle. You might be scared into never checking out the other great lines. Aug 31, 2009
You should expect "Loose sandy jugs, detached blocks, ledge fall potential" etc. To moan about the stars, grades and rock on any of those routes is stupid.
For what its worth I would give the route 3.2 stars because just like the beer I like to have or do one once in awhile.
Keep up the good work Brian. Sep 6, 2009
Small Lake, UT
Nooky, I expect to find all of the choss and sketchyness befitting an adventure route when I'm up on the Castle. Again, when comparing with the others this line just had more. Read the whole post before running your mouth. Sep 6, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
I have only done the Black Streak and Gothic Pillar, but I thought that Gothic Pillar was amazingly better than I expected. Less Shitty ledge traverses and a few pitches of actual good solid climbing. I was stoked on it. Acually ran into BSmott on the summit and tried to lie to him about the quality, but couldn't pull it off. Sep 7, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
Like James said, you have been a very lucky(or unlucky)boy. Sep 7, 2009
Small Lake, UT
The route keeps 2 stars for length, position, exposure and the fact that you can get cold in the middle of the summer.
The 4 mp.com star rating is misleading, it's a Ruckman's 1 star, or a rock canyon 1.6 stars. It's OK when compared with other Castle's routes and as Brian mentions if you look at it within all of LCC it gets a couple of bombs.
As far as the Castle go, I'd say Shadow of the Blade (3.5 stars) > Evil Eye = Horns of Satan (both 3 stars) > Gothic Pillar / Miller (2 stars) >> Portable Darkness = Black Streak (1 star and that's being generous since it's a death route full of idiots rappelling, thanks for that James). Sep 8, 2009
Sorry if you veiwed the post as elitist drivel. It was not meant to come across as that.
What I was getting at is that Devils Castle is no place to mess up and to have fallen off a bunch of times up there is obviously not a good thing. You are very lucky and I'm happy that you fell close(I'm guessing)to the bolts and that everything was ok.
I still worry about falling on the bolts as like you say there is detached blocks everywhere. Over the years Ive seen limestone blocks with the bolts still in them lying on the ground. I just can not imagine taking falls up there and it sounded to me that you were taking it like a badge of honor.
Again sincere apoligies if that was not the case.
I'm sure we both agree its a serious place and I hope everyone else thinks the same way too.
However, I do disagree that breaking holds has not much to do with the climbing up there. I'm sure one of the first things you mentioned about the climb to your friends afterwards(but not your wife/girlfriend/domestic partner) was about taking a fall or getting hit because of breaking holds and bad rock. Only after that did you get into more detail about the climb itself. I know I did.
But like you said we have to agree to disagree on something.
Take care and enjoy yourself. Sep 8, 2009
This new variation is called "Gothic Darkness" 5.8
August 10th Condition update:
Just climbed this today. That hollow section just at the 2nd pitch belay (that Kip mentioned) wasn't there earlier. I moved left where the rock was more solid. We jumped up and down on the ledge, used a crowbar and it still seamed OK. For safety, we added a 6' hand line incase you want to yard the last few feet to the belay. Aug 26, 2018
Farmington, utah