PRINT: Rock Climb Bulge Indirect, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Bulge Indirect

5.7 R, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: ?? Brent Roaten, Dave Pearson and Lizzy Nuss
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

As if there aren't enough starts to the Bulge. Did this variation out of boredom with the regular start, and it looked interesting. Doubt this is a first ascent but haven't seen it in any guide or on this site... Start about 50 feet right and downhill from the the standard first pitch and about 30 feet left of Whittle Wall. Begin by climbing an unprotectable lichen covered face behind a small tree at the base of the south buttress behind the Whale's Tail. Head straight up to a band that continues left to the first belay of the Bulge. This variation adds significant length and some difficulty to the first pitch with similar unprotected climbing. The crux is the lichen covered face shown in the lower part of the picture.

Location

See above description and pictures.

Protection

Not much

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving up the band towards the first belay. The crux of this pitch is the first 20 feet of unprotected 5.8ish slab climbing.