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Evil Paradise

5.10c, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 27 votes
FA: Rick & Leslie Bradshaw 2000
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a.… > Grotto Left (E Side)

Description

This great climb has a little bit of everything. It has crack climbing to laybacks to face to slab. Might be easiest to skip the bolted belay and be careful getting to the first bolt, at most 5.6.

Location

The face to the left of Hidden Slab

Protection

12 bolts + anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting into some good hand jams low on the route. March 2010.
[Hide Photo] Getting into some good hand jams low on the route. March 2010.
On the opening traverse, March 2012
[Hide Photo] On the opening traverse, March 2012
Just off the deck. March 2012
[Hide Photo] Just off the deck. March 2012
Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto.<br>
8 - [[105832864]]<br>
9 - [[105890940]]<br>
10 - [[105824886]]<br>
11 - [[105890946]]<br>
<br>
Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: http://www.losalamos.com/diablo/default.asp.<br>
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[Hide Photo] Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - Evil Paradise 9 - Hidden Slab 10 - Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) 11 - Lucifer's Hammer Drill Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author…
One move from the anchor. March 2010.
[Hide Photo] One move from the anchor. March 2010.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] My favorite 10 at Diablo. Varied climbing and well protected. Crux is short section 10c. Most of climb 10a/b mostly 10a. Must do climb. Oct 8, 2006
[Hide Comment] Hi guys -

FA was by Rick Bradshaw, I think assisted by his wife Leslie. Probably 2000.

-Walt Nov 26, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is do-able with a 50m rope, but it sucks and requires a bit of sketchiness. 60m rope highly recommended. Really fun climbing but the rock could be better. Mar 5, 2007
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
[Hide Comment] I would go ahead and reccomend the bolted belay. But that may not be your cup of tea. Either way a really fun climb. Don't get tunnel vision. It's got all you need. Oct 5, 2010
Ken Kisiel
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Felt the rock was excellent for Diablo. Great position with many cruxes. Jul 23, 2012
kinz Davis
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] watch for loose blocks above mini dihedral and at the anchors. probably should be trundled Apr 30, 2018