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5.10c, Sport, 80 ft,
Avg: 3.6 from 27 votes
FA: Rick & Leslie Bradshaw 2000
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto (a.k.a.… > Grotto Left (E Side)
This great climb has a little bit of everything. It has crack climbing to laybacks to face to slab. Might be easiest to skip the bolted belay and be careful getting to the first bolt, at most 5.6.
The face to the left of
12 bolts + anchors
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Getting into some good hand jams low on the route. March 2010.
On the opening traverse, March 2012
Just off the deck. March 2012
Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - Evil Paradise 9 - Hidden Slab 10 - Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) 11 - Lucifer's Hammer Drill Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author…
One move from the anchor. March 2010.
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Los Alamos, NM
My favorite 10 at Diablo. Varied climbing and well protected. Crux is short section 10c. Most of climb 10a/b mostly 10a. Must do climb.
Oct 8, 2006
Hi guys -
FA was by Rick Bradshaw, I think assisted by his wife Leslie. Probably 2000.
Nov 26, 2006
This is do-able with a 50m rope, but it sucks and requires a bit of sketchiness. 60m rope highly recommended. Really fun climbing but the rock could be better.
Mar 5, 2007
I would go ahead and reccomend the bolted belay. But that may not be your cup of tea. Either way a really fun climb. Don't get tunnel vision. It's got all you need.
Oct 5, 2010
Felt the rock was excellent for Diablo. Great position with many cruxes.
Jul 23, 2012
watch for loose blocks above mini dihedral and at the anchors. probably should be trundled
Apr 30, 2018