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5.10, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 38 votes
FA: Rich Strang summer 97
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Ed Woody
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Description

High first bolt and some tricky moves to a good rest. Step around arete after the last bolt to keep the route at easy 5.10. Better finishes are to finish straight to the anchors 5.11, or the best finish 2-3 stars is to finish on Redline the next route to the right.

Location

On Far left side of Ed-Woody Wall

Protection

4 Bolts + Anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Definitely not one to avoid. First bolt is not very high (it's no higher than Redline)and it's easy climbing up to it. Fairly sustained up to the anchors. I went straight up the face, so I can't comment on the grade if you step around the arete, but I would consider that not only a bit off route, but also more dangerous because of the swing potential. For what it's worth, Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says: "Quality climbing and very popular..." Jul 1, 2007
Aimee McRae
Bend
  5.10
[Hide Comment] As far as I know I went straight up through the shallow crack and it seemed like 10+ at the most. Not hard, just a little heady- Um, I think I was on Redline May 16, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves, felt 5.10 to me. Jul 12, 2009
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Not Ed's route
FA Rich Strang summer 97 Aug 19, 2010