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Routes in Ed Woody

Cobbles and Robbers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Len's Take S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redline S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rich Strang summer 97
Page Views: 120 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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28 Opinions

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Description

High first bolt and some tricky moves to a good rest. Step around arete after the last bolt to keep the route at easy 5.10. Better finishes are to finish straight to the anchors 5.11, or the best finish 2-3 stars is to finish on Redline the next route to the right.

Location

On Far left side of Ed-Woody Wall

Protection

4 Bolts + Anchors

Photos

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Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b/c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b/c
Definitely not one to avoid. First bolt is not very high (it's no higher than Redline)and it's easy climbing up to it. Fairly sustained up to the anchors. I went straight up the face, so I can't comment on the grade if you step around the arete, but I would consider that not only a bit off route, but also more dangerous because of the swing potential. For what it's worth, Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says: "Quality climbing and very popular..." Jul 1, 2007
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.10
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.10
As far as I know I went straight up through the shallow crack and it seemed like 10+ at the most. Not hard, just a little heady- Um, I think I was on Redline May 16, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves, felt 5.10 to me. Jul 12, 2009
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Not Ed's route
FA Rich Strang summer 97 Aug 19, 2010

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