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Routes in Ed Woody

Cobbles and Robbers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Len's Take S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redline S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rich Strang summer 97
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

High first bolt and some tricky moves to a good rest. Step around arete after the last bolt to keep the route at easy 5.10. Better finishes are to finish straight to the anchors 5.11, or the best finish 2-3 stars is to finish on Redline the next route to the right.

Location

On Far left side of Ed-Woody Wall

Protection

4 Bolts + Anchors

Photos

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Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Not Ed's route
FA Rich Strang summer 97 Aug 19, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves, felt 5.10 to me. Jul 12, 2009
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.10
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.10
As far as I know I went straight up through the shallow crack and it seemed like 10+ at the most. Not hard, just a little heady- Um, I think I was on Redline May 16, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b/c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b/c
Definitely not one to avoid. First bolt is not very high (it's no higher than Redline)and it's easy climbing up to it. Fairly sustained up to the anchors. I went straight up the face, so I can't comment on the grade if you step around the arete, but I would consider that not only a bit off route, but also more dangerous because of the swing potential. For what it's worth, Dennis Jackson's "Rock Climbing New Mexico" says: "Quality climbing and very popular..." Jul 1, 2007