PRINT: Rock Climb Cobbles and Robbers, El Rito

Cobbles and Robbers

5.11a, Sport,

Avg: 2.6 from 66 votes
FA: Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Ed Woody

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning Details

Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

The 2nd route from the right on the crag. Start just above a ledge, the first bolt is high. Continue up, most of the holds go right of the smoothish face.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors. Anchors are a bit funky.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11a

Quite sustained on small-for-El-Rito holds. If you feel pumped going through the middle, just go for it. It gets a lot easier with good rests near the top.
Funky, homemade anchor hangers but they look bomber. Jun 26, 2007

tim naylor

5.11b

good middle section on sweet pockets, two ways to do crux. go right or strait up, same grade .11b? 3 stars Sep 2, 2007

J tot
Tempe, AZ

I hit a bomber rest pocket right in the middle where the going is the toughest. Unfortunately it was full of water. Made sticking the next hold a little tricky. Aug 9, 2010

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM

Not Eds either
FA Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97 Aug 19, 2010

Paul Winkler
Albuquerque, NM

5.11a

As of 7/13/13 the oval on the right anchor is essentially impossible to open with one hand and won't close on its own. I was going to replace the 'biner, but sadly those funky anchors made it impossible without taking the entire hanger off. Might be time to get some legitimate hangers on there. Jul 15, 2013

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11a

Re: changing out the anchor hangers...I think this is the route I tried to change the anchors on a few years ago but the bolts spin in the holes so the nuts won't come off. But that shouldn't stop folks from trying again...my memory could be fuzzy. But if that's the case, drilling new holes may be necessary. Jul 16, 2013

J. Albers
Colorado

5.11a

Wow Jason. If the bolts are spinning in the holes, then they are no longer in tension and the only thing holding you when you lower/rap is the leverage of the bolt in the hole. In short, those anchors really need to be replaced before someone gets hurt. Punch new holes if you need to, but get some new anchors in! (I will try to keep an eye on comments here and if it still hasn't been done by the next time I am in NM, I will bring my drill....could be a while though, so don't count on it happening soon). Jul 16, 2013

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11a

Hey John, my impression of the situation is the holes weren't cleaned the best and the nuts on the threads are locked up so the wedge bolts rotate in the hole when one tries to loosen or tighten the nuts. But if the bolts are pulled on, the wedge still wedges. But I didn't have a crowbar or other device to pull on the bolt/hangers. I don't recall exactly what I tried but I was unable to get the bolts or hangers out/off. But I wasn't sketched out by the situation. Still, an anchor upgrade would be great. Jul 16, 2013