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Routes in Ed Woody

Cobbles and Robbers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Len's Take S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redline S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jun 12, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

The 2nd route from the right on the crag. Start just above a ledge, the first bolt is high. Continue up, most of the holds go right of the smoothish face.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors. Anchors are a bit funky.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Hey John, my impression of the situation is the holes weren't cleaned the best and the nuts on the threads are locked up so the wedge bolts rotate in the hole when one tries to loosen or tighten the nuts. But if the bolts are pulled on, the wedge still wedges. But I didn't have a crowbar or other device to pull on the bolt/hangers. I don't recall exactly what I tried but I was unable to get the bolts or hangers out/off. But I wasn't sketched out by the situation. Still, an anchor upgrade would be great. Jul 16, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
Wow Jason. If the bolts are spinning in the holes, then they are no longer in tension and the only thing holding you when you lower/rap is the leverage of the bolt in the hole. In short, those anchors really need to be replaced before someone gets hurt. Punch new holes if you need to, but get some new anchors in! (I will try to keep an eye on comments here and if it still hasn't been done by the next time I am in NM, I will bring my drill....could be a while though, so don't count on it happening soon). Jul 16, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Re: changing out the anchor hangers...I think this is the route I tried to change the anchors on a few years ago but the bolts spin in the holes so the nuts won't come off. But that shouldn't stop folks from trying again...my memory could be fuzzy. But if that's the case, drilling new holes may be necessary. Jul 16, 2013
Brototype Winkler
The Bay Area
5.11a
Brototype Winkler   The Bay Area
5.11a
As of 7/13/13 the oval on the right anchor is essentially impossible to open with one hand and won't close on its own. I was going to replace the 'biner, but sadly those funky anchors made it impossible without taking the entire hanger off. Might be time to get some legitimate hangers on there. Jul 15, 2013
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Not Eds either
FA Luke Laeser & Rich Strang spring 97 Aug 19, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
I hit a bomber rest pocket right in the middle where the going is the toughest. Unfortunately it was full of water. Made sticking the next hold a little tricky. Aug 9, 2010
tim naylor
  5.11b
tim naylor  
  5.11b
good middle section on sweet pockets, two ways to do crux. go right or strait up, same grade .11b? 3 stars Sep 2, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Quite sustained on small-for-El-Rito holds. If you feel pumped going through the middle, just go for it. It gets a lot easier with good rests near the top.
Funky, homemade anchor hangers but they look bomber. Jun 26, 2007