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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Phil and Andy Reynolds
Page Views: 1,528 total · 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 11, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A fun, solid limestone route. There are tiny edges, jug sidepulls, hidden jugs, a deep muddy pocket, and one two-finger pocket.

There are two cruxes: The first is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is pretty balancy until a jug sidepull. The second is the slightly overhung section after clipping the penultimate bolt.

Location

Counting from the left side of BBDW this is the 4th route. It shares the starting bolt with the route to its left (Lacy Doggie Panties). After the first bolt, take the right and slightly higher of the two bolts at approximately the same level.

Protection

7 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
Awesome route. Has a little bit of everything from balancey moves at the bottom, to some mantles, to crimps and jugs, and even a sloper and a 2 finger hole. Way fun.

But I agree that the top feels harder than 10a. Maybe I did it the hard way, but between the last two bolts I did a pretty tricky, and very committing series of moves involving a layback with my weight on a single sketchy crimp. May 20, 2010
darrell hodges
  5.10a
darrell hodges  
  5.10a
Good route.
The finish is easier if you go slightly left between the last bolt and the chains.
Not sure if that is the intended line or if the harder line to the right of the anchor is the correct one. Either way works but the right side version feels harder than 10A. Apr 10, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10b
Fun move between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Lots of good feet. Great 3 finger pocket up on the light band of rock. Too stout to be a 5.10a, more like a 10b. Aug 23, 2008
Fun climb with some really fun and not too complicated moves. I will for sure do this one again. Apr 13, 2008