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South Face | 2344
5.10c,
Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
FA: Bill Robins, and Skeeter Malinski 1987
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Black Peeler Bu…
> S Face
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Climb off the anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch of Western Grebe. It works right, past the left-facing corner beginning of Fool's Paradise, and works a roof with a pin. After this roof is a slab with 3 bolts and another pin.
Pitch 2: is the west-most of the four bolted routes above the chain anchor. Flaky rock leads past two bolts to more flaky rock etc. Get to a ledge and continue up the 5.8 arete or just finish off to the left. This should clean up if it were climbed more. Come on all you slabbers!!
Protection
Bolts, pins and some long runners. All Chain anchors.
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogeryc…
If however you get triggered by the smallest of offenses then avoid this. Wouldn't want you to get all butt hurt over such matters of grave importance. Pfft. [not speaking to you Mowgli] Apr 7, 2025