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Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie)

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British


 Avg: 2 from 28 votes

Routes in Apple Cider

3AM Handy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apple Cider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birthday Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chingadero S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Contortionist T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corrections, The T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Demolition Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy To Remember T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Puke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Heros Are Hard To Find T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
One Man Sex Party S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pandora T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Punta Magna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Slaves, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweeney's Special T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Texas Sucks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ticket to New Zealand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Valhalla T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Michael Borga & ?
Page Views: 1,597 total · 11/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1 - start the same as Easy to Remember, then go up a right-angling ramp past a ledge to a belay behind a large boulder.

P1 Variation - do a more direct finger crack start that meets up with the right-angling ramp (5.9).

P2 - traverses to the left on a sloping ledge and moves around a corner.

Per Michael Borga: the line shown and listed here is what we called "Charlie's Indirect!"

"Travels with Charlie" went straight up and over the boulder where the first belay station is achieved. We called the p1 variation in the description "Charlie's Direct".

Location

The start is the same as that of Easy To Remember. To the right of Texas Sucks and left of Apple Cider.

Protection

Standard East A rack.

Photos

Dropped a stopper on this climb. We belayed at the chains for Apple Cider, and it is climber's left of the chains and down about 20-25'. If anyone picks it up and wants to return it, that would be great. Oct 7, 2015
The first ascent of Charlie's Indirect, the drop and step around move was done by Peter Jamieson and Michael Borga. The comment regarding the exposure above for a 5.7 move is an understatement. Sep 16, 2014
The line shown and listed here is actually what we called "Charlie's Indirect!"
"Travels with Charlie" actually went straight up and over the boulder where the first belay station is achieved. We called the p1 variation in the description "Charlie's Direct". Aug 18, 2014
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.7
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.7
If you continue up and right from the big ledge you end up on, the rock quality deteriorates into piles of boulders that don't seem too safe. The direct start is fun, but again, you get into rock of horrible quality at the top as you meet "Travels". It's easy to bail after just doing the first pitch by climbing to the belay ledge where the anchors for "Texas" are, building an anchor, bringing up the second, and then rapping from the "Texas" anchors.

  • EDIT* Actually did the second pitch today and it was quite the experience! There's good pro as you make the "wild move" around the prow, and the exposure is unrivaled compared to any "5.7" I've ever been on....
Apr 23, 2011