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Routes in Moss Ledges

Burning Embers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Firewalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hibatchi Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maggot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mineral Slab T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Raw and the Cooked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Salmonella T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wienie Roast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Clay Watson, Scott Keller 2004
Page Views: 292 total, 2/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Belay out of the terrace in the middle of the stream bed by clipping a couple of bolts on vertical rock. Then easier climbing with gear placements up through a gap in a diagonal roof system with great medium gear(.9+). Step right and onto the upper headwall and finish on this headwall with two bolts at about 11a. However, it is a lot more fun to follow the diagonalling finger crack (5.9) up and left for 20-30 feet. Then around that face to easier ground cutting back right to the apex of the upper face. Two bolts with chains for the anchors that you can't see from the ground. A 60 meter rope just makes it back to the ground for the rappel so be careful when lowering or buy a 70. Its nice to belay the second from the sunporch up and out of the creek and pulling the rope from there drops it onto the tree and keeps it out of the creek.

Location

This route is about 50 feet to the right of the last picnic tables and the route Wienie Roast. It starts right out of the stream bed and the belay has just enough dry rocks for your rope bag.

Protection

Two bolts, standard rack, long draws. The .11a finish has two more bolts and you kinda have to connect the dots.
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
"The best way to finish is the crack that traverses under the face."

Super fun. Whole route is fun, clean, and well chalked. Surprised how much water is at the base even now. Sep 5, 2017
tenesmus  
 
I added a clarification topo to try and help make it clear. The best way to finish is the crack that traverses under the face.

This was the first new route I ever had anything to do with and found the experience to be super fun. I'm sure I wouldn't have bolted that face now but at the time, I was just excited about the whole process. If you want to make the face climbing easy, stay out left of the bolts. If you want it to be 11-, contrive yourself into staying directly in the bolt line and use the cool BCC edges.

Its just a nice, cool place to hang out on a hot summer afternoon. Even better, this place is freezing on summer mornings! Sep 5, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Note that this route starts left but finishes right of Salmonella. Great route and well protected. I TRed the bolted finish after leading the crack and thought climbing left of the bolts (where all the chalk was) was only 10-. Aug 17, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Full value 9+! First comment sums up the route pretty well. Don't expect a gym climb sugar bagged excursion, but I suppose the mixed nature suggests this. I thought this was on par with High Dive at glass ocean, a bit more physical and less exposed than it. Also recommend the easier finish as the hand crack, to finger crack, to classic BCC arete is the bees knees. #3 at 3/4ths height is a good recommendation. This is the Industrial wall of Big Cottonwood, with the extra treat of gear :) Jun 21, 2016
tenesmus  
 
Its nice to have a #3 camalot for about 3/4 height - at the bottom of that finger crack. Very glad you enjoyed! Sep 7, 2006
This route is REALLY good. It is SOLID 5.9+ (unlike a lot of newer routes that seem very easy for the grade). Kudos to the FA's for seeing the line. I've walked by this several times and didn't have the vision. The start is obvious with the two bolts. Then climb easier rock up and right until you get into a steep left-facing dihedral. Place a bomber cam or two and punch the crux. After latching a "thank God" bucket, go up and slightly right (by a bush or some sort of plant life). Then follow the leftward traversing crack to keep it 5.9. This crack starts big (jamming optional) and narrows to finger locks. Hope this description wasn't redundant. Sep 1, 2006