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Routes in Spray Wall

Anger Management V11 8A
Becoming, The V10 7C+
Dad Speaks Parley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dan Speaks Darrly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Arts, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Kerosene Milkshake V6 7A R
Mungamatic (submitted as Name Unknown) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Only Entertainment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Outre Salvo S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pagan Wisdom S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Randy Speaks Farsi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spew S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spray S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Spray Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surefire S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dan Durland
Page Views: 2,229 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This route takes the prominent line out fixed chain quickdraws on the 45 degree overhang next to the big boulder.

Start by preclipping the first bolt (this is absolutly essential for safety, or you will go flying into and break your back on the boulder at the base of the climb, laying down crashpads is also a good idea). The crux (which gone through numerous evolutions,changing the grade from .13b, to .13d) is right below the first bolt, consisting of some technical dynamic trickery with tiny sharp crimps. This is a V8 dyno to a glued on ear, which seemes to alternate from glued on one year to off another, right now it is glued on. After that its two huge feet cutting dynos out right to a technical dropknee move, then bust the final V6 slopey/crimpy/undercling crux over the lip to the anchors.

NOTE: almost this entire route is manufactured, and I hesitated putting it on here because of all of the flack the route would receive. So please take it as it is, and understand it was put up in an era when "experimental" new routing was accepted.

Very powerful and dynamic, fun moves.

Location

On the left 45 degree wall above the huge boulder, this route takes fixed chain quickdraws out its right side.

Protection

Fixed chain quickdraws.

Photos

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
At the time that Brett and I were close to sending, it was in the .13c/d or d range. The span needed for the crux dead point is huge and might easily up the grade if the climber is shorter. Oct 7, 2014
Ian Spencer-Green
  5.13c/d
Ian Spencer-Green  
  5.13c/d
Yes, as Jared stated I pulled off the original undercling, which definitely increased the grade to what I felt was 13c/d range. The route is extremely fun for being almost entirely chipped. As Ben put it, you have to take it for what it is, for I in no way whatsoever support chipping. It probably would of been a good 5.14+ if it never was chipped. Also Ben, the first ascent of the Dark Art should be attributed to Dan Durland. As I always understood it the original name was "The Dark Art", not "The Dark Arts". This should be changed on the listing. I don't know about the grade? Didn't the gaston flake you fire to break some? Jul 14, 2009
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13d
The start without the glued feature is??? probably V12 and V8/9 ish with it. I remember when(Ian) had it on his mantle, when it fell off initially :)Brett Green and I dug the route in each state.... Jan 21, 2009
Scott Hahn
  5.13d
Scott Hahn  
  5.13d
Due to the fact that the rest of this route is manufactured, the route has been returned to its previous state, which makes it a lot more fun. May 26, 2008