The Dark Arts
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Spray Wall
|Anger Management V11 8A|
|Becoming, The V10 7C+|
|Dad Speaks Parley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Dan Speaks Darrly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dark Arts, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Kerosene Milkshake V6 7A R|
|Mungamatic (submitted as Name Unknown) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Only Entertainment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Outre Salvo S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Pagan Wisdom S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Randy Speaks Farsi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rapture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Spew S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Spray S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Spray Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Surefire S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a|
|Type:||Sport, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||2,229 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Schmitt on Jun 8, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route takes the prominent line out fixed chain quickdraws on the 45 degree overhang next to the big boulder.
Start by preclipping the first bolt (this is absolutly essential for safety, or you will go flying into and break your back on the boulder at the base of the climb, laying down crashpads is also a good idea). The crux (which gone through numerous evolutions,changing the grade from .13b, to .13d) is right below the first bolt, consisting of some technical dynamic trickery with tiny sharp crimps. This is a V8 dyno to a glued on ear, which seemes to alternate from glued on one year to off another, right now it is glued on. After that its two huge feet cutting dynos out right to a technical dropknee move, then bust the final V6 slopey/crimpy/undercling crux over the lip to the anchors.
NOTE: almost this entire route is manufactured, and I hesitated putting it on here because of all of the flack the route would receive. So please take it as it is, and understand it was put up in an era when "experimental" new routing was accepted.
Very powerful and dynamic, fun moves.
LocationOn the left 45 degree wall above the huge boulder, this route takes fixed chain quickdraws out its right side.
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