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Routes in Davidson Wall

Australians at the Forks T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bach's Celebration T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bladerunner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brown Derby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bushdoctor T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushman T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equalizer, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Flake, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Girls Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda Workout T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Kingfolia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kingkinkus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Lips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queenfolia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retard's Recess T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Turkeys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torpedo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trapeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Valentine's Day T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Watusi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 477 total · 3/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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53 Opinions

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Description

Located between Three Turkeys and Paradise Lost, Retard's Recess climbs a sweet right facing dihedral to the canyon's rim. Face climbing up and left leads to the dihedral. Twin cracks lead to a short but stiff crux near the top out.

Protection

2 sets TCU's
1 x .5, .75 Camalots
2 x #1 & #2 Camalots
Half Set of Stoppers

Photos

David Deville
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10+
David Deville   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10+
If the crux feels impossible, you're missing something. I fell 6 or 7 times at the crux before I finally found what worked. Also, watch your right ankle jamming in the right crack. Something about the angle/direction caused me to tear something in my ankle on the easy section before the crux. A bit of a bummer, but I'll be back for the RP when I'm healed. Jan 6, 2018
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10+
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10+
I'm surprised this route doesn't get more stars. This is one of the best 5.10's I've climbed in the Forks so far. It's an extremely clean line with great gear and solid stances every 8-10 ft leading up to the crux. Felt like a route you'd find in the Creek. Can't wait to come back and get this one clean. For someone at their limit, I'd recommend: (2) .4 - 1 and singles of 2-3. Jan 15, 2018
Just a warning, a climber fell on this route 6/10/18 at the Crux and broke her right leg below the knee. Her last piece was a bomber #1 camalot at the apex of the bulge, just before it gets steep. I am not sure but I think she ran out of the right size to place something higher. The climb should be very safe, but make sure you have enough gear and a good soft catch. Jun 10, 2018

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