Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Deidre Burton
Page Views: 2,334 total · 15/month
Shared By: 46and2 on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


92 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Another Jacks Canyon bolted crack but fun nonetheless! Crux is probably between the first and second bolt, be a bit careful here as you might not want to fall here? Sustained good route though with some helpful rests along the way. Good quality route, have at it! PS: Guidebook says 5.10c but I think it goes closer to 10a/b IMHO, you choose?

Location

On the trail to Casino cliffs, this climb is about 20 feet to the left from where the trail meets the wall in a small right facing corner/crack with bolts, can't miss it!

Protection

6 Bolts and some fixed anchors at the top just waiting for you.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
5.9 if you've got ladies fingers, 5.10c if you run big meat hooks or you're attempting this in full sun.

Definitely finger size dependant. Great route and must do for the area. For those of you who don't climb cracks - this is a good intro as you don't have to place gear and the crack portion only goes for about 20 feet. Mar 21, 2007
Nick Irvine
Flagstaff
Nick Irvine   Flagstaff
Fun one!! If your tall enough (around 6 feet) and you don't mind getting feet a little high, I don't think that this is too finger size dependent. You can hit tiny finger tips low, or get a much wider bottleneck up higher. (If i'm remembering correctly) Aug 6, 2007
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
best route on the casino wall? I thought it was honest 10b, but I have sausage fingers. would protect easily with gear. Aug 25, 2010
Miguel D
SLC
  5.10a/b
Miguel D   SLC
  5.10a/b
Good stuff. Recommend it for sure. Crack can get too thin, but even with thicker fingers you can find holds if you just keep looking up or down it. After you get to the first horizontal crack / ledge it becomes relatively easy the rest of the way Jul 13, 2014
Andy McQuillen
Mesa, AZ
Andy McQuillen   Mesa, AZ
Led this placing gear yesterday! A bit spicy and a ton of fun. Such a classic line! Definitely a soft 10 if you have fingers that are small enough to lock all the way up the crack. Dec 29, 2014
Timothy Carlson
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Timothy Carlson   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Maybe not the best climb at Jacks, but I sure enjoyed the heck out of it. I might take some gear along next time and see how the crack takes it. Feb 26, 2017