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Never Never Land

5.12a/b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 16 votes
FA: Matt Samet
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Pogue's Cave Area
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Steep! Climb two bolts to a fair rest, then tackle steep rock with several small roofs. Pull the crux where the holds thin to a no hands rest. Pass about 2 spaced bolts on 5.8 terrain to the anchors.

Location

Down the hill from the cave, between Houka and a long 10b.

Protection

8 Bolts + 2 open shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling up above the crux and into the easier terrain above. July 2012.
[Hide Photo] Pulling up above the crux and into the easier terrain above. July 2012.
Just below the crux. July 2012.
[Hide Photo] Just below the crux. July 2012.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Try a heel-hook at the crux! Makes that insane crimp just a bit easier to deal with! Sep 16, 2007
Ryan Curry
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Some of the best rock we encountered at the Pogue's Cave area was on this climb. Fun, monkey (see gymnastic) movement to the crux bulge, then heel-hook and REACH.....I'll let you figure out the rest! Have fun! Apr 22, 2011
Eric D
Gnarnia
[Hide Comment] Please delete your comments. Your unsolicited beta takes away the possibility of on-sighting from everyone that scrolls through this route page. Apr 10, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
[Hide Comment] ^^^^ Take away the beta? If you don't want any route beta, then don't troll around on a website where the mantra is "Beyond the Guidebook". If you're so pure, next time just show up to the crag, pick a line, and fire away Scotty. Apr 10, 2017
Eric D
Gnarnia
[Hide Comment] I do want route information. I want to know where a route is and its grade. MP users typically do not spray beta in the route information so that everyone can have a chance to try and onsight. Apr 13, 2017
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] If all you want is route location and grade, then pick up a copy of Rock Climbing NM by Dennis Jackson. This is a bare bones guidebook that won't mess up a pure OS. I personally don't read the description of a route, comments or look at pictures of a route before I attempt to OS something. But it sure is fun to read the route description & comments later. Apr 17, 2017