PRINT: Rock Climb Never Never Land, Enchanted Tower

Never Never Land

5.12a/b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 16 votes
FA: Matt Samet
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Pogue's Cave Area

Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

Steep! Climb two bolts to a fair rest, then tackle steep rock with several small roofs. Pull the crux where the holds thin to a no hands rest. Pass about 2 spaced bolts on 5.8 terrain to the anchors.

Location

Down the hill from the cave, between Houka and a long 10b.

Protection

8 Bolts + 2 open shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling up above the crux and into the easier terrain above. July 2012.

Just below the crux. July 2012.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM

5.12a/b

Try a heel-hook at the crux! Makes that insane crimp just a bit easier to deal with! Sep 16, 2007

Ryan Curry

5.12-

Some of the best rock we encountered at the Pogue's Cave area was on this climb. Fun, monkey (see gymnastic) movement to the crux bulge, then heel-hook and REACH.....I'll let you figure out the rest! Have fun! Apr 22, 2011

Eric D
Gnarnia

Please delete your comments. Your unsolicited beta takes away the possibility of on-sighting from everyone that scrolls through this route page. Apr 10, 2017

J. Albers
Colorado

^^^^ Take away the beta? If you don't want any route beta, then don't troll around on a website where the mantra is "Beyond the Guidebook". If you're so pure, next time just show up to the crag, pick a line, and fire away Scotty. Apr 10, 2017

Eric D
Gnarnia

I do want route information. I want to know where a route is and its grade. MP users typically do not spray beta in the route information so that everyone can have a chance to try and onsight. Apr 13, 2017

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12a/b

If all you want is route location and grade, then pick up a copy of Rock Climbing NM by Dennis Jackson. This is a bare bones guidebook that won't mess up a pure OS. I personally don't read the description of a route, comments or look at pictures of a route before I attempt to OS something. But it sure is fun to read the route description & comments later. Apr 17, 2017