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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,332 total · 73/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.

Location

This route is located about 15 yards past the wooden lookout where Palisade Head should be visible.

Protection

Park service installed enormous bolts, please use these to say the trees whenever possible. You can also fit a brown tri-cam in the drilled test holes. As with all Shovel Point routes bring a lot of webbing.
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
Is this route leadable on modern gear (micronuts/cams, ballnuts, etc) at a reasonably safe Pg-13 level? Oct 27, 2015
seagreene
Minneapolis, MN
seagreene   Minneapolis, MN
Using the 2 giant bolt anchors, climb the climber's left dihedral for a 5.7, move out towards the face for 5.8-9 (finishing near the dihedral), or move all the way to very thin cracks on climber's right for a 10+ face climb. Apr 15, 2014
A classic North Shore pitch. Jul 15, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
This has been a popular climb for at least 2 decades. A great slab with a great setting and backdrop- Regardless of the grade, it is worth climbing. Just get there early in the AM to beat the boyscout troups to it! Jun 8, 2006