Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Fancy Dancer

5.11b, Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 54 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Interstate SP (… > Minnesota Strip
Warning Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year. DetailsDrop down

Description

You will understand why this is called Fancy Dancer once you attempt the balancy, high stepping moves. Follow the thin crack to the right of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge. The crack ends about half way up the face, you can either lower off or finish on the top of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge.
  • RCM&W #54, p.166.

Location

This route is located immediately to the right of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge on the same face and lead up to the middle section of Blue Moon.

Protection

Nuts and small cams on lead. Standard top rope set up, often TRed on the same anchors as Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

After my lead on Fancy Dancer. 
<br>

<br>
Chad Heying with the catch and Blane Cullen with the picture
[Hide Photo] After my lead on Fancy Dancer. Chad Heying with the catch and Blane Cullen with the picture
About to pull the crux
[Hide Photo] About to pull the crux
Cosmic Curt Lee at the base of Fancy Dancer - late 1970's.  He's getting ready to dance, or doing the Dance of Jackness - probably both.
[Hide Photo] Cosmic Curt Lee at the base of Fancy Dancer - late 1970's. He's getting ready to dance, or doing the Dance of Jackness - probably both.
Fancy Dancer route is generally in the highlighted area
[Hide Photo] Fancy Dancer route is generally in the highlighted area
Peter Vongrossmann. Fancy Dancer, about 1983.
[Hide Photo] Peter Vongrossmann. Fancy Dancer, about 1983.
Big stretch for short climbers
[Hide Photo] Big stretch for short climbers
Fancy Dancer
[Hide Photo] Fancy Dancer

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Cox
Andover, MN
[Hide Comment] A thought inducing route. Little trickier for short climbers. Over all VERY FUN! Mar 22, 2010
K R
CA
 
[Hide Comment] I tried this route the other day. I assumed the arete is off near the top. I basically found myself with a bunch of poor holds and mostly just a wobbly block to make a huge reach to a great jug (final difficult move). I think I can do the route this way next time I come back, I'm mostly just curious if reaching right towards the arete is acceptable beta. Sep 3, 2014
Brad Finley
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route that took some thinking. But one important hold includes a loose-feeling rock. Jun 23, 2020
Peter Czoschke
Bloomington, MN
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] For the top half of the route, you can climb the face between the Blue Moon arete and the main cracks of The Bulge. It is very much in character with the bottom half (but easier) and makes for a satisfying finish. Nov 7, 2020
Adam Bibeau
Saint Paul
  5.11b X
[Hide Comment] Just did this route on a top rope with a buddy and one of the crucial holds is super loose. It doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere but still something to look out for. Could potentially make things a lot tricker for a trad lead. May 12, 2024