PRINT: Rock Climb Goat Crack, Little Falls

Goat Crack

5.4, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Little Falls > Moss Island

Access Issue: Permit Not Currently Required Details

A permit was once required to rock climb at Moss Island, but since 2010, does not appear to be required anymore. There is an issue getting medical vehicles to the island, so be aware. This fact may affect the permit situation in the future.

Description

Rumor has it that the FA of this route was done by a local goat. It, and its neighbor Jeff Loves Eileen, make good beginner climbs, and take good gear as well.

Location

The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right; Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.

Protection

TR; there are bolts on top for setting an anchor. Use of double-length slings possible.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First time back on the rock a few weeks after getting 9 screws and a plate in my ankle!

Leading Goat Crack

Mother's Day 2020

Violeta on the Goat, moving to Crap (ladder)

Since there is no picture uploaded for this climb yet: "Goat Crack" (the obvious left line) and "Jeff loves Eileen" (right) on Easter sunday 2013

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie S
NV

A great place for beginners to start. The crack's really good for passive gear if you don't have the budget for cams quite yet. There's also a large boulder on the top to set up solid top rope anchors. Dec 15, 2007

Nathan Stokes

I agree, this climb can be sewn up with a set of nuts and some doubles in the off fingers size. Nov 21, 2009

Mitch Hoffman
Fonda NY

This climb was my first trad lead and is a great place for anyone to give leading a try. Apr 7, 2010

Todd Clark

This was my very first climb EVER!!!! Thanks Goat May 4, 2010

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY

5.4

Great gear the whole way up. Nuts down low, you can place a small cam (purple and green camalots) towards the top. The official guide for the area list this at 5.4 or 5.5. I'm inclined to agree it's harder than 5.2, though maybe 5.5 is highly optimistic. Apr 21, 2014

Mary giehl

This is the only climb that has been climbed so much that it is glass now for a few of the holds. Nov 22, 2017

Jim Pavoldi
Saratoga Springs, NY

Just brought wife and 3yo. This is a great route for the grade as it doesn't have the chossy-ledge feel of easy routes. Especially good for first timers as each move is a rest, but it's consistent and provides a lot of reward for topping out as it's just a few feet higher than the adjacent wall to open an over-the-shoulder view of the river. First time back since '93, nice surprise to find 3 sets of bolted anchors on the Jeff & Eileen wall. Apr 29, 2020

Scott Doering
The Gunks

5.3

Probably harder than a 5.2 but still very easy. I usually warm up on this. Save wear on your cams and just go with passive gear. Perfect for that! Jun 2, 2022

Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO

I did my first lea ever on this! my friend bought a set of nuts and we said screw it lets give it a rip! been a journey every since Dec 20, 2023